Asia

Buddha on Colombo's Biera Lake in Sri LankaCalled Serendib by Arab traders  (the origin of the word “serendipity”), Sri Lanka has an amazing diversity for a small island and offers the possibility of experiencing vastly different climates, history, and cultures during a short vacation. In this Four Part Series I will share a glimpse of four different areas of Sri Lanka that can, and should, be a part of any itinerary to the island of providence.

Part 1 explores the East Coast city of Trincomalee and the Hindu  Koneswaram Temple and Part 2 brought us to the Ancient Buddha Rock Statues of Polonnaruwa. Part 3 visited the Hill Country and Hikes Through the Tea Trials. In this final article we stay closer to home, the city of Colombo.

Sri Lanka’s largest city, and the starting point for travelers flying into this South Asian island nation, Colombo is often bypassed completely in favor of the southern beaches, majestic hill country, or the cultural triangle in the county’s center. Seeking the tranquility, history and nature promised, travelers head out of the crowded and chaotic city. However, the city deserves some attention and there are a few unique sites to see. Perhaps the most intriguing is the eccentric Gangaramaya Buddhist temple.

Praying in front of Giant Buddha, Colombo Sri Lanka Gangarama Temple

A man prays before the giant Buddhist Statue at Gangarama Temple. The main Buddha statue is just one of at least a thousand filling every corner of the temple.

An interesting and eclectic mix of Buddhist images from all over the world, as well as a smattering of random antiques, creates a crowded feeling to this popular temple. The temple is really the warehouse for the thousands of items collected by the widely traveled, eccentric head monk Podi Hamuduruwo. It’s impossible to draw a clear line between where the Theravada begins and the Mahayana tradition ends (the first officially followed in Sri Lanka , and the second the tradition that spawned Tibetan and Zen Buddhism). Throw in Hindu statues and you’ll soon forget to care about the differences. Podi accepts donations from everyone and everywhere, somehow finding room for everything. Whether intended or not, it’s a nice message of tolerance and acceptance in a country where ethnic and religious tensions fueled the now ended 20 year plus civil war.

Naked Statue at Buddhist TempleThis is one way to be greeted at a Buddhist Temple. Makes you wonder why I am asked to wear long pants!

Antique Buddhist CarBuddhist monks know how to roll in style!

How to hold up a Buddhist TemplePot-bellied dwarfs holding up the temple. Yup, they are naked too!

Gangarama Temple ElephantThe temple even has it own elephant, with gigantic tusks. Just be careful, he seems really agitated to be chained to such a small area all day long. On the weekends he usually gets a break and is trucked out of the city to get away from the pollution that is making him sick. Very sad, if you ask me. Leave the elephants for statues in a city temple.

Meditating with WaterA devotee meditating with a jar of water. She is attempting to make her mind as still as the water inside.

Sri Lanka MusicTraditional Kandian musicians playing at noon time. You can watch and listen to them on my YouTube Channel.

Gangarama Thai style Buddhist StatuesThese statues have a Thai look to them.

Mahayana Statue at Gangarama Temple Sri LankaThis is an unmistakable Mahayana Buddha statue. Perhaps of the Bodhisattva of Compassion.

Gangarama Temple Sri LankaA very crowded temple. The two large angry statues in the back are Nio guardians from Japan.

Just a five minute walk down the street at Beira Lake is another temple, Seema Malaka, that is worth a visit. It is not as eccentric as Gangarama, but it is also not your typical Sri Lankan temple either. Built on an island in the lake, the temple was designed by the famed architect Geoffrey Bawa. It is rare to find a moment of peace in a crowded city like Colombo, but this is one place you are guaranteed to find it. There is no entrance fee, so you can relax and watch the pelicans drift buy. Unfortunately, the water is highly polluted, and the bright green water is anything up refreshing to look at.

If the previous temple was a shining example of tolerance and acceptance, Seema Malaka has more dubious origins. Rumor has it, it was financed by a muslin who was kicked out of the community. No, its not a conversion gift, but more of a f$*#% you gesture. Regardless of its origins, it is one of Colombo’s must see sites.

Seema Malaka Lake Temple Sri Lanka Seema Malaka Temple from above.

Seema Malaka Colombo, Sri LankaWatch out, the walkways get VERY hot and you are not allowed to wear shoes in the temple.

Seema Malaka Temple Colombo, Sri LankaYou will never get lonely with such good company around.

I hope you have enjoyed this mini tour through Sri Lanka. The country has so much to offer this is but a small sample of what you can expect from the land of serendipity. But don’t forget to give Colombo its due. Two days is plenty to get a feeling for the city, but after three years of living there I was still discovering new surprises.

Have you been to Sri Lanka? Planning a visit? Just want to remake at how beautiful it all is? Leave a comment below and join the discussion.

Sri Lanka tea fields

Called Serendib by Arab traders  (the origin of the word “serendipity”), Sri Lanka has an amazing diversity for a small island and offers the possibility of experiencing vastly different climates, history, and cultures during a short vacation. In this Four Part Series I will share a glimpse of four different areas of Sri Lanka that can, and should, be a part of any itinerary to the island of providence.

Part 1 explores the East Coast city of Trincomalee and the Hindu  Koneswaram Temple and Part 2 brought us to the Ancient Buddha Rock Statues of Polonnaruwa.

Sri Lanka’s hill country is a world unto itself. Dramatic mountains are smoothed out by waves of evenly spaced tea bushes that calm the senses and clear the mind. Amongst the tea plantations, like no where else in Sri Lanka, you can feel the blend of civilizations between England’s colonial past, the Tamil Hindu community that was forcefully moved from India to Sri Lanka to work in the fields, and the ancient kingdom of Kandy. The bled of cultures provides an amazing cultural backdrop to rival the already amazing natural beauty of the area.

Stone Church in Sri Lankan Hill Country

A British built stone church

Hindu Statue in the Sri Lanka Tea Fields

A Hindu statue in the tea fields

Heading up to the higher altitudes is a great way to beat the heat of the lowlands and a sweater or fleece is a must for the chilly evenings. The cooler weather is also perfect for hiking and experiencing the beauty of the tea trails and mountain views up close and personal. My favorite way to travel in the tea country is to stay in an old tea bungalow and make it your base for exploring the area. Haputale is the perfect town for this, with expansive views out onto the plains below and a number of great hikes close by (including Horton Plains, which you can read about in any old guide book).

Buddhist Prayer Flags in Sri Lanka

Buddhist Prayer Flags

Ella Gap, Sri Lanka

A view of Ella Gap

Either a car or a driver is essential, but the freedom to explore trails off the beaten track is the reward for this extra bit of effort. Trust me, things are much cheaper in Sri Lanka than you are used to so this will not be too much of a burden. If you need another option climb Sri Lanka’s most famous pilgrimage at Adam’s Peak, where you’ll be sure to find public transportation, and a sore body afterward!

From Haputale drive one  hour to the picturesque town of Ella. The guide books sing the praises of Ella as a tiny, authentic rural hill country town. It’s true that it’s small but it is not really authentic anymore with the multitude of guest houses cramming into the hillside for a picturesque view of Ella Gap. And it is beautiful, which is why I recommend a day trip and a hike up Little Adams Peak, named for its cone like resemblance to its famous older brother. The trail head is just about 1.5 km outside of town and brings you through beautiful tea plantations, provides views of Ella Gap, and rewards you after am easy 30 minute hike with spectacular views of the surrounding hill country.

Further off the beaten path, but with a storied history is Lipton’s Seat. Named after Sir Thomas Lipton, of Lipton Tea fame, it is said this magnificent viewing point was the tea baron’s favorite place to hike to. Located 10-12 km from Haputale it is a bit out of the way. However, it on the same road as my favorite tea bungalow, in the town of Dambethenna with a tea plantation of the same name. As with most towns in the tea country the town and the tea plantation are synonymous and neither would exist without the other. The narrow road cuts back on itself creating a seemingly endless ladder high into the clouds above the town where the trail starts. The road is not for the feint of heart as mere inches separate you from a wild crash down the steep sides.

View of Lipton's Seat Sri Lanka

Lipton Seat and the view beyond (photo: Audi Liew)

The path itself is a dirt track that winds it way through the high tea plantation. It ends at a cheesy viewing station that will easily be blocked from memory by the 360 degree views. On a clear day 5 different provinces can be seen and an amazing view right down into the Uvin Basin and the Indian Ocean. While the hike is easy, the timing can be tricky and the area is often shrouded in deep mists that obscure everything from the ocean to the tips of your fingers. Start your hike here early in the morning as this is your best chance to enjoy the views before the predictable afternoon mists roll up from the valley below.

Have you been to Sri Lanka’s Hill Country? We would love to hear your experiences or just a comment on the article.

If you Go

Reservations:

If you want to stay in Haputale and at the Kelburne Cottages visit the company’s website at:

http://www.kelburnemountainview.com/

Reservations can be made in Colombo as well as payment in advance. The small, hidden, unmarked office is just off of Galle Road before Liberty Place. Call them if you get lost…which you will.

Getting there:

Here are directions to Kelburne. The staff can show you the way to Ella as well as Lipton’s Seat.

A car is essential, either a hired car (which is easily sorted in Colombo), or your own. You can also take a bus to Haputale town and then a trishaw the rest of the way.

From Colombo : Take the Badulla/Bandarawela Road through Ratnapura (A4). At Haputale Town cross-road take the right turn on the Dambettene Road (approx. 1 mile). Turn at the Kelburne Mountain View board.

From Kandy :
Take the Peradeniya/Badulla Road (A5) to Welimada. Turn right on the Welimada/Bandarawela Road to reach Haputale.

From down South: Take the A2 road to Wellawaya through Hambantota and turn left onto the Koslanda/Beragala Road , join the A5. Or, go straight to Ella on the A23 and drive to Bandarawela/Haputale.

When to go:

The guide books suggest December to April are the driest months in the hill country and the South West. They are right, but if you want to the excellent views the staff at Kelbourne recommended the rainy season of May-September as the clouds below are regularly blown aside.

I love Japan. I lived there for five years, I speak Japanese, my wife is Japanese, I even walked a 900 mile Japanese pilgrimage twice. And yet, every time I think that I have nothing more to learn, that Japanese culture cannot shock me any further I am pleasantly surprised. Actually there is nothing pleasant about this.

Japanese Blended Pig Placenta Drink

Yum! The cartoon doctor in the background has convinced me.

While I was shopping I came across the wonderfully named drink Placenta! It is no secret that the Japanese love English, not speaking it fluently, but pasting it on anything and everything to make it seem cooler. Most items make no sense and are just random words strung together. Others are more unfortunate, like the  5 year old girl in my elementary school English class who showed up wearing a t-shirt that said “Smack the Bitch and Pump the Hoes.” I’m still trying to figure out if this was supposed to be a gangster tag line or that of an enraged farmer. In her parent’s defense, it was pink and had cute little flowers on it.

So my natural reaction at seeing the drink Placenta, was that some poor office worker was asked to come up with an English word that conveyed health and vitality for their new line of vitamin supplement drinks. Unable to speak English he turned to his ever present electronic dictionary and the rest is marketing history. To my surprise they new exactly what they were doing! It is blended pig placenta, bottled and distributed all across Japan for your pleasure.

Placenta Facial MaskYes, you read that correctly. Blended Pig Placenta. For about $8.50 you can drink a 30 milliliter bottle of Blended Pig Placenta. In fact more Japanese drink it than I could possibly imagine. So many people that a new, popular product line was developed of beverages of various placental concentrations (tastes like peaches!), capsules, an organic skin cream and a wearable facial mask filled with placental extract. Sexy, I can’t wait to see my wife with a little placenta on her face (no she does not use it…nor will there be ANY placenta related projects in our house!).

I know what you’re thinking: Japan is such a crazy place. Well they might have been ahead of the curve on this one as Placentophagy – the storied, age-old tradition of placenta eating – is on the rise again. Yup, that’s right. There seems to be a growing movement- conspiracy?- in the US and other places to get placenta onto our plates. They have even gone so far as to try to slip it onto our pizzas!

So you may be wondering what the lesson is here. Other than making you think about and decide if you want to drink or eat Placenta there is no lesson. Oh, wait, maybe it’s that what we find strange in other cultures is just a result of our own ignorance. And that usually we can find the same practices right back at home; we are just not trained to see them as clearly as when we are in a foreign society and everything looks new and different. That is, if you want to get philosophical about Blended Pig Placenta.

Have you eaten or tried to drink Placenta? Would you? What other crazy foods have you come across in your travels or even in your local market? Leave your comments below.

Blogsherpa Travel CarnivalThis post is part of the Lonely Planet BlogSherpa Travel Blog Carnival hosted this time by Jennifer over at Orange Polka Dot. The Carnival is hosted every two weeks by a BlogSherpa member. The topic this time is Foreign Food Finds. I hosted the last one here on Todd’s Wanderings about Travel Safety.

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