East Timor

Of course the prision can't help but look nice from the outside in a tropical country

When I decided to take my own advice and re-visit Timor-Leste, I didn’t expect to find myself in a dark suffocating prison. Travel is not just about beaches, bars and mountain tops; its also about learning the history of the country and its people. I am sure the 13 odd government employees I brought with me to learn about post-conflict land administration and conflict management were hoping for the former. I can’t name where the officials are from as elements of their own government might not be happy we discussed ethnic reconciliation. If you know me well, I am sure you can guess.

The Indonesian era prison is actually home to a permanent exhibit on the Reconciliation process that occurred in Timor after independence, called the Commission for Reception, Truth and Reconciliation (CAVR). It is tricky business getting people together to admit to crimes they committed against their neighbors, but it’s an exercise that’s vital to forgiving and moving on to a more peaceful society. With war raging in Afghanistan, and post-war countries like Iraq trying to move on, examples like the process in Timor are a great way for travelers to gain a greater appreciation for the difficulties so many countries face around the world.

The family greets you as you enter the mildew soaked buildings

If you are planning a trip to Timor-Leste I recommend a visit to the exhibition, but if you can’t get away just yet here is short tour from my visit.

Community meetings and reconciliation

The CAVR was asked to investigate less serious crimes and bring victims and persecutors together to reconcile. Most people wanted reconciliation, but also rehabilitation for victims, engagement with refugees, and grassroots reconciliation based on both traditional methods and involving the Church.

About 1,371 reconciliations were facilitated by CAVR between perpetrators and victims of less serious crimes.

Before the (CRP) I felt ashamed to walk around the village. Now when I walk around, I feel freer. People didn’t talk to me sometimes before. Now I feel that people are more open. Before I felt a weight on me when I went to work in the fields.

As you walk though the prison various rooms are set up with displays showing the history of not only the CAVR but also a history of Timor-Leste’s struggle for independence from Indonesia.

Presentation by one of the members of the CAVR and director of the exhibit

Description of the Isolation Cell

As you move through the exhibit it is impossible not to be moved by the pain and suffering experienced by the Timorese people. And yet amid all of this suffering there is a message of hope, justice and peace. Nothing can become so bad as to be beyond redemption as there is also an equal ability of forgiveness by human beings.

Of course this does not make it any easier and some of the images are graphic and disturbing. Such as the one below (scroll fast if you do not want to see).

Inside the prison cells

At the end of the tour you are brought to a small garden to discuss what you have seen, share your feelings and work through what is at once a shame for human beings but also a model of triumph and forgiveness. As the humid breeze brushes your hair, the palm trees groan under the weight of gigantic coconuts, and the twittering of birds fill your ears you are reminded that nature has a capacity to revert to its original self, as do we humans after tragedy has stuck. The final message the tour has for you is not one of the past, but of the present. On the wall leading out is a question, scrolled in illuminating moss and algae: “What will you do for human rights now?”

Its a good question. Hopefully more travelers take it to heart and leave something positive wherever they go.

The CAVR exhibition is open to the public each working day on Balide Rd in Dili. Tour guides are available in English and Tetun. Bookings and further information are available at: tel 3310315, email chegatours@gmail.com

Have a strong feeling about the CARV? What do you think about a traveler’s responsibilities? Leave a comment below.

My friend Megan who writes the blog See. Write. Live. nominated me to share my three best travel secrets on Todd’s Wanderings. The nomination is a part of Trip Base Blog tag in which the Top Bloggers’ Best Kept Travel Secrets will be published in a free ebook that will be shared with the “entire online community…” Hmmm, good luck with that!

First, I had to decide if my secrets were safe for the average traveler…my lawyers tell me I should be okay (by reading this you have now waived all your rights). So here you are, some of my well kept secrets, and favorite places in this wonderful world:

1. Mount Koya, Japan

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Everyone visits the major temples in Kyoto and Nara but these days they are little more than tourist attractions, albeit pretty ones, lacking that lived in, struggle for enlightenment feel. Mount Koya, the secluded mountain temple complex of Esoteric Shingon Buddhism in Wakayama Prefecture, is a hideaway for a more authentic massive temple experience. Located in the heart of the Kii mountains, it was founded in 816 by the monk Kukai, mythical founder of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. The complex houses 100 temples, many offering lodging, and the most famous cemetery in Japan leading to Kukai’s tomb. A walk through the cemetery is an otherworldly experience dominated by centuries old cedar trees and hundreds of moss covered stone Buddhas playing hide and seek in the mist.

2. Castlereigh Reservoir, Dikoya, Sri Lanka

I couldn’t possible live with myself if I didn’t include a stay at Castlereigh Family Cottages in my list of best kept secrets. Not that I want to fight the crowds to visit, but they do such a wonderful job they deserve my unabashed fawning. Two small cabins sit in the middle of a working tea plantation, right on the reservoir, with amazingly large porches to wile away a relaxing day soaking in the scenery. One cabin can sleep four while the larger one sleeps up to ten wanderers. Add the genuine friendly staff that wait on you hand and foot, delicious BBQs and the incredibly cheap prices and I am wondering why I ever left. Most visitors to Sri Lanka head up to the large tea plantation areas, but Dikoya delivers on scenery, tea trail hiking and is close to Adam’s Peak, Sri Lanka’s best known pilgrimage.

3. Dili, East Timor

yeowatzup

Timor Leste has a troubled past, and the instability in 2006 led to travel warning advisories most governments have yet to lift. Excited to go yet? If you are a scuba diver, or you are someone who wants to see a young country before it is transformed, then you should be. The travel advisories mean there are few tourists but plenty of facilities catering to the peacekeeping and development workers helping Timor Leste to recover. Located in the coral triangle Timor Leste boasts acres of unspoiled reefs, world class underwater walls stretching miles into the distance and a friendly local population eager to share their country with the rest of the world. Dili is the main base for diving and most dive spots are off shore,just a few meters from the secluded beaches lining the coast. Of course you need to be careful and watch your security, but this is not Afghanistan folks!

Now that I have shared my secrets it is time for me to “tag” five bloggers to participate in the “Three Best Kept Travel Secrets”. Your it:

1. Lili at Muza-chan’s Gate to Japan
2. Kirigalpoththa, name to remain a mystery…
3. Suzanne, THIRTY: Own up to Being Growing-up
4. Stephanie, Where in the world am I?
5. Marianne, Zen & the Art of Peacekeeping

As promised here is the beginning of my updates. While I am currently living in Sri Lanka I want to share with you a road trip myself and 3 friends went on to East Timor’s tallest mountain, Mt. Ramalou. Located in the middle of the country it is not the easiest of places to reach. I don’t remember the exact distance (maybe about 160 km from Dili), but the first 140 km took about 4 hours and the last 20 kilometers another 3 hours!!

It was great to get out of the “city” and see a little more of the country side. East Timor has an abundance of natural beauty and while the mountainous areas are some of the poorest and least accessible in the country, they also hold some of the most spectacular vistas, and kindest people there are.

Enjoy the trip!!

Climbing the winding roads above Dili, we were given one final glimpse of the Capital before rounding a bend and plunging into the mountains for good

We were fortunate to have a 4 wheel drive car to ourselves. The rest of the country is not so fortunate and packed trucks and buses (with people sleeping on the top even) is a common sight on the ‘main’ roads.

Even when you do reach a sizable town, the traffic signs can be a bit confusing. As this little town’s sole stop sign the town council might have been a bit confused about where it would be most effective…

After 4 hours on paved road (but averaging only about 30 km and hour or so) we made the last 20 kilometers on a very rough, lonely path

The road brought us through a beautiful mountian landscape with traditional huts scattered throughout, adding to both the beauty of the area but also the sense of loneliness and remoteness

Children often ran out of their homes at the sound of any car, hoping to catch a glimpse of anything new

We passed some friends on their way back from climbing. With no pubic transportation in the area these women welcomed a free ride.

Group photo attempt number 1

Our Posada (inn) for the night. The lonely planet lists a Posada that was actually closed. We were lucky that this one had been opened. It was very basic but the people were very friendly and we shared the food we brought and shared a meal with the caretakers and the guests (all Timorese).

Our room for the night. The Posada was full due to a teachers training going on in the town. However, 4 woman moved out and in with their coworkers and were kind enough to allow us to stay for the night. We started hiking in the middle of the night (around 2 am).