Japan

I love Japan. I lived there for five years, I speak Japanese, my wife is Japanese, I even walked a 900 mile Japanese pilgrimage twice. And yet, every time I think that I have nothing more to learn, that Japanese culture cannot shock me any further I am pleasantly surprised. Actually there is nothing pleasant about this.

Japanese Blended Pig Placenta Drink

Yum! The cartoon doctor in the background has convinced me.

While I was shopping I came across the wonderfully named drink Placenta! It is no secret that the Japanese love English, not speaking it fluently, but pasting it on anything and everything to make it seem cooler. Most items make no sense and are just random words strung together. Others are more unfortunate, like the  5 year old girl in my elementary school English class who showed up wearing a t-shirt that said “Smack the Bitch and Pump the Hoes.” I’m still trying to figure out if this was supposed to be a gangster tag line or that of an enraged farmer. In her parent’s defense, it was pink and had cute little flowers on it.

So my natural reaction at seeing the drink Placenta, was that some poor office worker was asked to come up with an English word that conveyed health and vitality for their new line of vitamin supplement drinks. Unable to speak English he turned to his ever present electronic dictionary and the rest is marketing history. To my surprise they new exactly what they were doing! It is blended pig placenta, bottled and distributed all across Japan for your pleasure.

Placenta Facial MaskYes, you read that correctly. Blended Pig Placenta. For about $8.50 you can drink a 30 milliliter bottle of Blended Pig Placenta. In fact more Japanese drink it than I could possibly imagine. So many people that a new, popular product line was developed of beverages of various placental concentrations (tastes like peaches!), capsules, an organic skin cream and a wearable facial mask filled with placental extract. Sexy, I can’t wait to see my wife with a little placenta on her face (no she does not use it…nor will there be ANY placenta related projects in our house!).

I know what you’re thinking: Japan is such a crazy place. Well they might have been ahead of the curve on this one as Placentophagy – the storied, age-old tradition of placenta eating – is on the rise again. Yup, that’s right. There seems to be a growing movement- conspiracy?- in the US and other places to get placenta onto our plates. They have even gone so far as to try to slip it onto our pizzas!

So you may be wondering what the lesson is here. Other than making you think about and decide if you want to drink or eat Placenta there is no lesson. Oh, wait, maybe it’s that what we find strange in other cultures is just a result of our own ignorance. And that usually we can find the same practices right back at home; we are just not trained to see them as clearly as when we are in a foreign society and everything looks new and different. That is, if you want to get philosophical about Blended Pig Placenta.

Have you eaten or tried to drink Placenta? Would you? What other crazy foods have you come across in your travels or even in your local market? Leave your comments below.

Blogsherpa Travel CarnivalThis post is part of the Lonely Planet BlogSherpa Travel Blog Carnival hosted this time by Jennifer over at Orange Polka Dot. The Carnival is hosted every two weeks by a BlogSherpa member. The topic this time is Foreign Food Finds. I hosted the last one here on Todd’s Wanderings about Travel Safety.

Jofukuji Temple, Shikoku Japan

So desperate to be different and yet still fit into a group. (Image courtesy of Royalt)

Japan is full of secrets hidden in plain view. To the casual observer Japan is a conservative and reserved society. Even those “breaking” with conformity tend to gather together and dress alike. But as most Japan insiders know, scratch the surface just a little and shocking secrets can come to light.

I discovered one such secret while visiting a rural Japanese Buddhist temple on the island of Shikoku. While walking the Shikoku Pilgrimage, a 900 mile route which hits 88 Buddhist temples, I stopped for a rest at a simple mountain village temple in Ehime Prefecture. Sitting between Temples 65 and 66, Jofuku-ji Tsubaki-do, is an unassuming and polite temple. Precise cedar beams mirror the thoughtful manicured garden as every detail of the clean temple grounds  was carefully planned out.  Japanese temples are wonderful places that incorporate the the more mundane concerns of folk religion right alongside the loftier goals of enlightenment.

WARNING: if you’re a statue or a doll below the age of 18 the following content may not be  suitable.

As I prayed at the temple steps in front of a golden statue of the Buddha I couldn’t shake the feeling I was being watched. Turning around I found four impeccably dressed statues starting at me.

She was looking as modest as can be, but with a curious knee poking out to the side.

Just your average conservative Japanese couple right? But what is the guy to the left doing?

I looked around to make sure I was alone. I didn’t want to be caught lifting the skirts off of statues after all, talk about an embarrassing conversation to have with a monk. The humid summer day ensured I was the only person crazy enough to be outside at mid-day, so I lifted away and here is their secret.

Fertility statues. Quite the pair, and pointed directly at the temple housing the main Buddha image!

Not so conservative after all...

Fertility and babies were a major preoccupation in historical Japan when the society was based around rice cultivation. As the fertility rates in the cities have plummeted, in recent years population grow has been negative, perhaps there is a lesson to be learned from rural Japan. At the very least it is great that there is such a wonderful sense of humor about the subject.

Feel free to comment and/or leave stories of shocking statues you have found in Japan.

April Japan Blog Matsuri, hosted by www.gakuranman.com

There is no better way to taste traditional Japanese life and culture than through one of the thousands of matsuri held across Japan each year. They come in all shapes in sizes, with dancing, singing, drinking, lots and lots of drinking, naked g-stringed men, massive floats, and portable shrines to take the gods (8 million at last count) out for a spin around the neighborhood and a bit of fresh air.

Most are innocent communal affairs, well maybe not the g-stringed extravaganza, a number are huge, such as Kyoto’s Gion Matsuri, but a few are down right deadly. In a world that is overly concerned with safety and preventing lawsuits, these masturi offer the chance to break through the grip of the rational mind through unmitigated danger and experience the ecstasy of touching the turbulent forces of the spiritual world. Or maybe its just an incredible adrenaline rush.

If you are traveling to Japan here is my list of the 3 Most Dangerous Matsuri that you should attend. Don’t worry you can watch behind the ropes like all the other tourists.

1. Onbashira Matsuri- Suwa, Nagano Prefecture

Photo by toshi0104

This insanely dangerous festival is held only every six years, and with good reason. Giant ceder trees are cut from the surrounding primordial forest and pulled out of the mountains. At its climax thirty to forty people sit on 17 meters long logs, each weighing over ten tons, and race down a steep mountain. Deaths and serious injuries are not uncommon as an unlucky few fly off and are crushed. The logs are used to rebuild the Suwa Taisha Shrine in order to spiritually renew the area with the gods living in the trees.

This matsuri tops my list because the next festival is happening the first weekend in April 2010. Plan now as it won’t happen again for another 6 years. Over two million people attended the last event in 2004, so book a hotel and transportation in advance if you plan to go. More information can be found here.

2. Sagicho Matsuri- Omihachiman, Shiga Prefecture

Photo by Andy Heather

Sagicho matsuri is a fighting festival in which ten massive floats made of bamboo and pine are paraded around the rural city. Each float belongs to a separate section of town and is decorated with thousands of bright red paper strips and an elaborate  model of that year’s Zodiac animal made entirely from natural marine products and grain. Each section of town attempts to out style the other and no expenses are spared. For two days the floats are carried around town by men, dressed as women to appease the female Shinto god enshrined at the local  Himure Hachimangu Shrine.

When other floats are encountered each side spins their  one ton float in a show of strength culminating in a mad dash at top speed into each other in a bone crunching crash. Teams battle for dominance until one float has pinned the other to the ground. After each battle  a celebratory sake and beer chug, naturally from the dedicated alcohol cart following each float,  ensures a long drunk day where someone always gets hurt.

I choose this one because I was involved and I know how dangerous and drunken it can be. Unfortunately, one of my own teammates broke his neck when he feel from the top of the float. Luckily he recovered…8 months later.  Stay until the end, if you haven’t passed out, and you are rewarded with the spectacular torching of floats in front of the shrine.

The festival takes place on March 15h and 16 in 2010. For more information see here.

3. Takeuchi Matsuri- Rokugo, Akita Prefecture

In the evening of February 15th, after a full day of chugging sake, the small northern town of Rokugo prepares for war.  They don helmets, divide the town into North and South and outfit their men with 40 foot bamboo polls. Yes, this is just one day after Valentine’s Day! Each side faces off in a prepared fighting arena, about 100 men to a side, and proceed to beat, whack and pummel the other side’s heads, legs and torsos causing cuts and welts on their enemies (neighbors and friends on any other day of the year). The first and second rounds are limited to “just” the bamboo poles and lasts three minutes each.

The third round is when things get serious as a bonfire is lit and the armies engulf their polls in the fire. Armed with blazing poles the townspeople enter a winner takes all final battle. In this brutal battle poles are quickly forgotten as  fist fights break out across the battleground, with deserters sometimes being dragged back into the arena for some more “fun”. According to the folk story, if the North wins the rice harvest will be bountiful for the year, a reality seemingly lost on the South in the heat of battle. Make sure you stay far enough back in the crowd so that you don’t get pulled in…unless you like a good street brawl with sticks and fire!

Directions to Rokugo can be found here.

There you have it, my three choices for the most dangerous matsuri in Japan. You may be wondering why I picked only three. Good question! The answer is simple, Japan loves the number three and most lists are ordered in triples.

There are of course many other choices for dangerous festivals in Japan, so join the conversation and argue for your own picks for Most Dangerous.

February Japan Blog Matsuri, hosted by www.muza-chan.net

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