If I don't know I'll ask my crackpot team of expat misfits

Trusted Travel Questions and Answers is my monthly chance to answer reader questions about travel and destinations. It can be hard to find trusted advice on travel from people who have actually been there. Every week I get a number of questions from readers asking for specific advice. This is my way of answering them but also sharing with others who might be looking for the same information.

8 Days in Sri Lanka

Daniel (sorry but you didn’t actually leave your name!) is heading to Sri Lanka for 8 Days and asked the following:

I am planning a trip for 8 Days in Sri Lanka. Going straight from the airport to Sigiriya, then Kandy the next day and after that driving to Kitulgala. From there I would like to go to a beach but I am trying to find the shortest most direct way to a beach and I am not sure if I have to drive back to Colombo to get there. Any advice you can give me would be great. Also if you know of any great places to eat local food that would be great. Thank you in advance.

Hi Daniel, first off, you are going to have a blast. I lived in Sri Lanka for 3 years and despite a civil war at the time I loved every moment. I have been all over the areas you mentioned and I’ll have to make a few assumptions first.

Yes, it says "Probably the Best in the Up Country"

1) You’ll have your own car in Sri Lanka (or at least a driver)

2) You will be driving to Kitulgala through the hill country and not back through Colombo. This route is much more scenic and gets you into the heart of the tea country.

My advice is that you drive through from Kandy through Nuwara Eliya and then down to Kitulgala. If you have a chance don’t miss the quite Castlereigh lake. You can also get a nice view of Adams Peak from this area. If you are looking for a nice place on the water to stay I can recommend Castlereigh Family Cottages. They are warm, friendly, and have two amazing bungalows with verandas that look out over the lake.

How to get From Kitulgala to the Beaches in Sri Lanka

The most direct route in Sri Lanka is not also the quickest! From Kitulgala you are not that far from Colombo and the main road that runs south along the coast towards Galle and the beaches. At the moment (October 2011) this is still the fastest way south. However, the 4 lane toll highway (Southern Express Way) is due to open by the end of the 2011. Once it opens this will be your fastest way South.

Remember that the monsoon switches by season allowing swimming on the West and East coasts at different times of the year. If you are going this season (September to March) you can swim on the West Coast (advice below) and the rest of the year on the East Coast at Argum Bay.

From the coastal road you have basically three choices, first you can stop at the popular party and surfing beach Hikkaduwa. There are a number of hotels where you can stay here, almost all of them right on the beach.

Your next option is just past the fort town of Galle and is called Unawatuna. This small town is my favorite in the south and has a nice mix of clear tropical water, decent accommodation, relaxing during the day but with some parties in the evening. Further along, and probably too far for an 8 day trip are the secluded beaches of Hambantota. They are virtually deserted and offer great value for the intrepid traveler.

Where to Eat Local Food

To be honest this one is the easiest to answer! You can get great local food anywhere in Sri Lanka. Just stop into the local shops along the road and you will get homemade local fare. Everyone and their grandmother can cook amazing curries so you are in for a treat no matter where you go.

If you have your own questions about travel, life on the road or specific destinations Contact me and include the subject Travel Question. If your question can be used by others I’ll include it in my monthly Trusted Travel Questions and Answer section.

*In case you are wondering, some of the links above are part of an affiliate deal I have with Hotels Combined. When you buy or do research on hotels through those links I earn a ton of money to add to my already huge vault of gold and diamonds. Joking aside, I use Hotels Combined myself and would will only ever promote or suggest services to you that I don’t believe in myself. If you do use them, thank you for helping to keep the lights on here at Todd’s Wandering. No worries if you don’t as well, I’m just glad you are here.

Trusted Travel Questions and Answers is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Some names and circumstances have been changed to protect my ass.

Not too many things get your heart beating like downing a half a bottle of Black Label whiskey and being hugged by a killer…

In the bathroom I called my friend who worked for the Sri Lankan government. It was 3 am and yet somehow he answered. “Where are you?”

“Have you ever heard of (name to remain anonymous)?”

“Of course I have. Where are you?”

“I’m in his suite at the (fancy hotel to remain anonymous).”

“What? Get the fuck out of there! I’m coming to get you.”

Whiskey does strange things to people, and after downing a half a bottle the world seemed like a gentle, gummy bear filled place. A night out, or rather in, with a group of gangsters sounded like a great idea. I hung up on my friend with assurances I was OK and headed back to finish the rest of the bottle.

Clubbing in Sri Lanka During the War

I have always had a problem with curiosity, and the chance to drink with a group of gangsters just couldn’t be passed up. I was worldly; I could take care of myself. Who knew the evening would end with me worrying for my life. Well, probably a sober me would have known that. But Whiskey Todd went with the flow and didn’t let anything stand in the way of a good time. After club hopping amongst Colombo’s hip, sweaty, young and extremely wealthy with the gangster’s nephew for the evening, I was ready to head anywhere.

Truth is that I had no idea who I was out with that night. He was a friend of a friend and needed a drinking buddy for the evening. With my wife away for the week on business I stepped up. Nothing good happens when wives are away.

At that time Sri Lanka was still embroiled in its 20 year civil war. The Tamil tigers had control of over a third of the country, and the tropical city of Colombo was packed, corner after corner, with checkpoints. Young soldiers with automatic weapons stopped everyone who approached, hoping one of the frequent bombings didn’t occur at their checkpoint.

We left our last club for the evening with the nephew asking me to join him. “My uncle’s in town and I need to say hello. It’ll just take a few minutes.”

As we approached a check point in his large black Mercedes-Benz ML5500 SUV a soldier waved us over. We were both drunk. “Should I run it? I’m drunk and have an arrest warrant in Slave Island.”

“No, stop.” I was lucky I got it out in time. I was starting to get my first hints of whom I was with. Yes, like I said, a half a bottle of whiskey dulls the brain a bit. “They only care about bombs, and as soldiers they won’t call up your info.” Thankfully he stopped and a few minutes later we were on our way across town.

Into a Gangster’s Room

“Listen, I have a confession. My uncle is a big deal, and not exactly on the right side of the law. Just keep your cool and you’ll be ok.”

I followed him into the enormous roof top suite and into a world one assumes only exists in movies and cheesy crime novels. The Boss, his Lieutenant and the Muscle sat around a coffee table drinking Black Label. South Asians love their Johnny Walker Black Label. The bedroom door was open and a passed out Ukrainian hooker lay sprawled across the bed. (Please don’t read into the fact that I called her a hooker. I’m sure she was a perfectly nice person).

Everyone except for the Muscle was smart and handsome. I sat in the free spot next to the Muscle, who could only be described at thick and slow. I kept quite as the family reunion took its course. Inquires into business, questions about family, affectionate offers. Next it was my turn.

“Do you want a hooker? I can have her call a friend.” The Boss nodded toward the bedroom.

I declined politely.

“Don’t like Russians huh? How about an Asian?

I explained that I was married.

“We can hit the Casino and I’ll get you a Chinese hooker.”

I convinced him I only needed the whiskey.

The Love of a Killer

Suddenly, the Muscle next to me shot straight up and lunged at me, giving me the strongest hug I’ve ever experienced in my life. That is if a hug and being squeezed to death were the same things. The boss jumped and everyone tensed.

“It’s OK.” I gave the Muscle a hug back. “I like you too.”

“Let him go” the Boss said quietly but forcefully.

“It’s OK,” I repeated. Was I trying to convince them or myself? The Muscle squeezed tighter, not wanting to let go. The boss stepped forward and looked the muscle in the eyes. He finally released me, sinking back into the couch in a drunken haze.

“He’s too drunk, and he killed someone the other day.”

Oh…I just realized where the fuck I was and it was time to leave. I sat through offers of being taken to the north to meet the rebel leader, offers of drugs, offers of guns, and more offers of hookers. After what I assumed was a polite amount of time, given the circumstances, I made my way to the door promising to meet them again when they returned to Sri Lanka from their homes in England.

The sun was rising, and the nephew walked me out to catch a cab. Just a friendly tip to anyone who finds himself or herself in a similar situation: When you have made it out of a criminal suite alive, leave it there and don’t pick a fight.

I don’t know how it happened but between the suite and the road the nephew and I ended up in a screaming match. I spent the next week trying to smooth things over behind the scenes before my wife returned. It took 6 months before the nephew and I could be in the same room together, and I could stop worrying about suddenly disappearing.

Eventually things got worked out. But I learned a lot about choosing my drinking partners more carefully, especially during war time.

What is your craziest drinking story while traveling?

Photo Credits 1

A Night with a Sri Lankan Gangster is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Called Serendib by Arab traders  (the origin of the word “serendipity”), Sri Lanka has an amazing diversity for a small island and offers the possibility of experiencing vastly different climates, history, and cultures during a short vacation. In this Four Part Series I will share a glimpse of four different areas of Sri Lanka that can, and should, be a part of any itinerary to the island of providence.

Part 1 explores the East Coast city of Trincomalee and the Hindu  Koneswaram Temple and Part 2 brought us to the Ancient Buddha Rock Statues of Polonnaruwa. Part 3 visited the Hill Country and Hikes Through the Tea Trials. In this final article we stay closer to home, the city of Colombo.

Sri Lanka’s largest city, and the starting point for travelers flying into this South Asian island nation, Colombo is often bypassed completely in favor of the southern beaches, majestic hill country, or the cultural triangle in the county’s center. Seeking the tranquility, history and nature promised, travelers head out of the crowded and chaotic city. However, the city deserves some attention and there are a few unique sites to see. Perhaps the most intriguing is the eccentric Gangaramaya Buddhist temple.

A man prays before the giant Buddhist Statue at Gangarama Temple. The main Buddha statue is just one of at least a thousand filling every corner of the temple.

An interesting and eclectic mix of Buddhist images from all over the world, as well as a smattering of random antiques, creates a crowded feeling to this popular temple. The temple is really the warehouse for the thousands of items collected by the widely traveled, eccentric head monk Podi Hamuduruwo. It’s impossible to draw a clear line between where the Theravada begins and the Mahayana tradition ends (the first officially followed in Sri Lanka , and the second the tradition that spawned Tibetan and Zen Buddhism). Throw in Hindu statues and you’ll soon forget to care about the differences. Podi accepts donations from everyone and everywhere, somehow finding room for everything. Whether intended or not, it’s a nice message of tolerance and acceptance in a country where ethnic and religious tensions fueled the now ended 20 year plus civil war.

This is one way to be greeted at a Buddhist Temple. Makes you wonder why I am asked to wear long pants!

Buddhist monks know how to roll in style!

Pot-bellied dwarfs holding up the temple. Yup, they are naked too!

The temple even has it own elephant, with gigantic tusks. Just be careful, he seems really agitated to be chained to such a small area all day long. On the weekends he usually gets a break and is trucked out of the city to get away from the pollution that is making him sick. Very sad, if you ask me. Leave the elephants for statues in a city temple.

A devotee meditating with a jar of water. She is attempting to make her mind as still as the water inside.

Traditional Kandian musicians playing at noon time. You can watch and listen to them on my YouTube Channel.

These statues have a Thai look to them.

This is an unmistakable Mahayana Buddha statue. Perhaps of the Bodhisattva of Compassion.

A very crowded temple. The two large angry statues in the back are Nio guardians from Japan.

Just a five minute walk down the street at Beira Lake is another temple, Seema Malaka, that is worth a visit. It is not as eccentric as Gangarama, but it is also not your typical Sri Lankan temple either. Built on an island in the lake, the temple was designed by the famed architect Geoffrey Bawa. It is rare to find a moment of peace in a crowded city like Colombo, but this is one place you are guaranteed to find it. There is no entrance fee, so you can relax and watch the pelicans drift buy. Unfortunately, the water is highly polluted, and the bright green water is anything up refreshing to look at.

If the previous temple was a shining example of tolerance and acceptance, Seema Malaka has more dubious origins. Rumor has it, it was financed by a muslin who was kicked out of the community. No, its not a conversion gift, but more of a f$*#% you gesture. Regardless of its origins, it is one of Colombo’s must see sites.

Seema Malaka Temple from above.

Watch out, the walkways get VERY hot and you are not allowed to wear shoes in the temple.

You will never get lonely with such good company around.

I hope you have enjoyed this mini tour through Sri Lanka. The country has so much to offer this is but a small sample of what you can expect from the land of serendipity. But don’t forget to give Colombo its due. Two days is plenty to get a feeling for the city, but after three years of living there I was still discovering new surprises.

Have you been to Sri Lanka? Planning a visit? Just want to remake at how beautiful it all is? Leave a comment below and join the discussion.

Experiencing Sri Lanka’s Providence- Part 4: Colombo’s Eccentric Gangaramaya and Peaceful Seema Malaka Buddhist Temples is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Called Serendib by Arab traders  (the origin of the word “serendipity”), Sri Lanka has an amazing diversity for a small island and offers the possibility of experiencing vastly different climates, history, and cultures during a short vacation. In this Four Part Series I will share a glimpse of four different areas of Sri Lanka that can, and should, be a part of any itinerary to the island of providence.

Part 1 explores the East Coast city of Trincomalee and the Hindu  Koneswaram Temple and Part 2 brought us to the Ancient Buddha Rock Statues of Polonnaruwa.

Sri Lanka’s hill country is a world unto itself. Dramatic mountains are smoothed out by waves of evenly spaced tea bushes that calm the senses and clear the mind. Amongst the tea plantations, like no where else in Sri Lanka, you can feel the blend of civilizations between England’s colonial past, the Tamil Hindu community that was forcefully moved from India to Sri Lanka to work in the fields, and the ancient kingdom of Kandy. The bled of cultures provides an amazing cultural backdrop to rival the already amazing natural beauty of the area.

A British built stone church

A Hindu statue in the tea fields

Heading up to the higher altitudes is a great way to beat the heat of the lowlands and a sweater or fleece is a must for the chilly evenings. The cooler weather is also perfect for hiking and experiencing the beauty of the tea trails and mountain views up close and personal. My favorite way to travel in the tea country is to stay in an old tea bungalow and make it your base for exploring the area. Haputale is the perfect town for this, with expansive views out onto the plains below and a number of great hikes close by (including Horton Plains, which you can read about in any old guide book).

Buddhist Prayer Flags

A view of Ella Gap

Either a car or a driver is essential, but the freedom to explore trails off the beaten track is the reward for this extra bit of effort. Trust me, things are much cheaper in Sri Lanka than you are used to so this will not be too much of a burden. If you need another option climb Sri Lanka’s most famous pilgrimage at Adam’s Peak, where you’ll be sure to find public transportation, and a sore body afterward!

From Haputale drive one  hour to the picturesque town of Ella. The guide books sing the praises of Ella as a tiny, authentic rural hill country town. It’s true that it’s small but it is not really authentic anymore with the multitude of guest houses cramming into the hillside for a picturesque view of Ella Gap. And it is beautiful, which is why I recommend a day trip and a hike up Little Adams Peak, named for its cone like resemblance to its famous older brother. The trail head is just about 1.5 km outside of town and brings you through beautiful tea plantations, provides views of Ella Gap, and rewards you after am easy 30 minute hike with spectacular views of the surrounding hill country.

Further off the beaten path, but with a storied history is Lipton’s Seat. Named after Sir Thomas Lipton, of Lipton Tea fame, it is said this magnificent viewing point was the tea baron’s favorite place to hike to. Located 10-12 km from Haputale it is a bit out of the way. However, it on the same road as my favorite tea bungalow, in the town of Dambethenna with a tea plantation of the same name. As with most towns in the tea country the town and the tea plantation are synonymous and neither would exist without the other. The narrow road cuts back on itself creating a seemingly endless ladder high into the clouds above the town where the trail starts. The road is not for the feint of heart as mere inches separate you from a wild crash down the steep sides.

Lipton Seat and the view beyond (photo: Audi Liew)

The path itself is a dirt track that winds it way through the high tea plantation. It ends at a cheesy viewing station that will easily be blocked from memory by the 360 degree views. On a clear day 5 different provinces can be seen and an amazing view right down into the Uvin Basin and the Indian Ocean. While the hike is easy, the timing can be tricky and the area is often shrouded in deep mists that obscure everything from the ocean to the tips of your fingers. Start your hike here early in the morning as this is your best chance to enjoy the views before the predictable afternoon mists roll up from the valley below.

Have you been to Sri Lanka’s Hill Country? We would love to hear your experiences or just a comment on the article.

If you Go

Reservations:

If you want to stay in Haputale and at the Kelburne Cottages visit the company’s website at:

http://www.kelburnemountainview.com/

Reservations can be made in Colombo as well as payment in advance. The small, hidden, unmarked office is just off of Galle Road before Liberty Place. Call them if you get lost…which you will.

Getting there:

Here are directions to Kelburne. The staff can show you the way to Ella as well as Lipton’s Seat.

A car is essential, either a hired car (which is easily sorted in Colombo), or your own. You can also take a bus to Haputale town and then a trishaw the rest of the way.

From Colombo : Take the Badulla/Bandarawela Road through Ratnapura (A4). At Haputale Town cross-road take the right turn on the Dambettene Road (approx. 1 mile). Turn at the Kelburne Mountain View board.

From Kandy : Take the Peradeniya/Badulla Road (A5) to Welimada. Turn right on the Welimada/Bandarawela Road to reach Haputale.

From down South: Take the A2 road to Wellawaya through Hambantota and turn left onto the Koslanda/Beragala Road , join the A5. Or, go straight to Ella on the A23 and drive to Bandarawela/Haputale.

When to go:

The guide books suggest December to April are the driest months in the hill country and the South West. They are right, but if you want to the excellent views the staff at Kelbourne recommended the rainy season of May-September as the clouds below are regularly blown aside.

Experiencing Sri Lanka’s Providence- Part 3: Hiking the Tea Trails is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

A temple ruin in the ancient city of Polonnaruwa

Called Serendib by Arab traders (the origin of the word “serendipity”), Sri Lanka has an amazing diversity for a small island and offers the possibility of experiencing vastly different climates, history, and cultures during a short vacation. In this Four Part Series I will share a glimpse of four vastly different areas of Sri Lanka that can, and should, be a part of any itinerary to the island of providence. The first part in this series explored the the East Coast city of Trincomalee and the Hindu  Koneswaram Temple.

Nestled in the lush central jungles of Sri Lanka sits Polonnaruwa, the 10th century ancient capital on par with Cambodia’s Angkor Wat,  Myanmar’s Bagan, or Thailand’s Ayutthaya. The rectangular archeological site sits on the shores of the Topa Wewa Lake, slightly north of the modern day town of Polonnaruwa where you can buy your entry ticket. Crumbling palaces, dozens of dagobas (stupas), temples and a multitude of ancient religious buildings peak through the dense jungle where monkeys run and swing in troops. Part of the enchantment is the journey there as you drive along the boarders of national parks where it’s common to see wild elephants crossing the road or disappearing into the thickets.

The site covers an extensive area and under the hot Sri Lankan sun it can be quite taxing to see all of it.  Rent a bicycle  in town if you want to stay close to nature, or even rent a taxi and pick up one of the guides waiting at the entrance gate.

Walking amongst the crumbling temples, solitary Buddha statues and exposed rock walls transports the visitor into a bygone era of ancient kingdoms and fierce battles. While all of the sites are amazing and should be enjoyed with equal attention, the real delight are the four Buddha statues at Gal Vihara on the northern boarder of the complex. Crafted in the 12th Century by unknown artists the Buddha’s represent the pinnacle of Sri Lanka rock carving and are probably the most beautiful images of the Buddha in all of Sri Lanka.

Beautiful carvings with smooth clean lines.

The four Buddhas are carved out of a single cliff, the tallest towering seven meters into the air while the enormous reclining Buddha measures a full 14 meters. However, its not the size that draws attention but the skill of the carvers and the enchanting veins of different rocks that sweep easily across the smooth faces and bodies allowing the statue to at once stand out and be a part of the surrounding cliff.

Reclining stone Buddha

The large seated Buddha on the far left depicts the dhyana mudra which is rare in Sinhalese sculpture as it is related to the Mahayana (such as tantric) forms of Buddhism rather than the Theravada Buddhism present in Sri Lanka today and which is said to be the original teachings of the Buddha.

Large seated Buddha

The smaller center Buddha

A small seated statue is located in an artificial cave near the center of the cliff and is similar in style to its larger neighbor. Be sure to remove your shoes before you enter the statue areas and do not turn your back to the statues  to take a picture as it is considered extremely rude.

A visit to the the ancient city will leave you amazed at the history of the area, but a visit to the Buddhas will leave you calm and relaxed. If you are interested in ancient majestic statues this is a must see part of any trip to Sri Lanka.

If you go

Getting there:

Travel by car or bus is your only real option. The road conditions are fine, if a bit crowded until you reach Habarana. The drive typically takes 8 hours from Colombo and can easily be combined with a few nights in Habarana to check out nearby Sygiria, the Dambula Cave Temples, or safaris in the national parks along the way.  Kandy is only 90 miles  (140 km) away and a trip to the other ancient capital, Anuradapura can easily be included as a day trip as well.

When to Go:

No particular season…just go!

Experiencing Sri Lanka’s Providence- Part 2: The Ancient Buddha Rock Statues of Polonnaruwa is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Sri Lanka. For many people it conjures images of a strident Colombo with its pollution and bottleneck traffic, the relaxed idyllic beaches in the South and a suffocating civil war in the North and East. Quite a contrast and one that kept many people from visiting the country during the intense fighting that erupted from 2006-2009. Now that the war is over tourists are streaming into the country, filling up hotels and weighing down tour buses. Locals are also fanning out and visiting areas once considered too dangerous.

Called Serendib by Arab traders (the origin of the word “serendipity”), Sri Lanka has an amazing diversity for a small island and offers the possibility of experiencing vastly different climates, history, and cultures during a short vacation. In this Four Part Series I will share a glimpse of four vastly different areas of Sri Lanka that can, and should, be a part of any itinerary to the island of providence. I am leaving out the beaches and the south as I have covered them before (Southern Sri Lanka).

Trincomalee Harbor

Trincomalee, Sri Lanka is a magical place. A small town atmosphere pervades this eastern coast haven as it clings to narrow strips of land reaching out into one of Asia’s best natural deep-water harbors. Perfect tropical beaches extend to the north of the small “city” tantalizing visitors with their turquoise blue waters and abundance of tropical fish. It is often described as the Maldives of Sri Lanka. Until recently the area has been under military lock-down and few tourists were brave enough to venture there. Now things are changing and the limited number of  hotels that were operating are preparing for an explosion of visitors by upgrading and adding rooms. Unfortunately, coastal land is also being parceled out in a very nontransparent and unethical way to developers from Colombo leaving lingering questions of how equitable the economic boom will be for the Tamil and Muslim majority in the area.

Koneswaram Temple

If you are looking to beat the crowds and experience Trincomalee (called “Trinco” by the locals) before it’s overrun with atmosphere choking tourism planning (yes, I am being cynical here) now is the time to visit. Besides the beaches, the cultural heritage of the town is extremely interesting. One of the best places to experience this is the Hindu  Koneswaram Temple, which clings to high cliff on Swarmi Rock off the edge of the Portuguese era Fort Frederick. The old fort is now occupied, fittingly so, by the Sri Lanka military, and you pass their barracks as you climb the steep hill to the promontory holding the temple.

The front door to the Temple. Don't forget to leave your shoes at the gate house below.

A view of the bay at sunset from the temple.

The path leading up to the temple was lined with stalls selling everything from dried fish to plastic Chinese figurines of the God of Fortune and Wealth. Usually quiet and deserted the area was teaming with devotees praying and helping to prepare the temple for its annual festival. Besides the temple the view from the cliff is amazing and you are rewarded of a view of the town and fishing boats below.

Hindu Deities on the corner.

Women leave these cribs to pray for an easy birth. Below, the sea hides the remains of the ancient temple.

The temple’s main deity is Lord Shiva and evidence suggests worshipers have been using the area for over 2,500 years. The original temple is long gone, pushed into the sea by the Portuguese in 1624 in their attempt to control the area. However, it was rebuilt 450 years later fueled by myths which associate the temple with the popular Indian epic the Ramayana, and its legendary hero-king Rama.

Leaving the temple a skinny young man grabbed my arm and directed me towards the bay. “When the tsunami came the whole bay below dried up as the water was sucked out into the ocean,” a local stall owner recalled. He pointed to the bay’s opening, drawing a line from the cliff top temple to another temple across the way. “With the water gone we saw huge square stone slabs placed on the ocean floor in a straight line leading from this temple to the one across the way.”

The other stall owners crowded in, nodding away. “We were always told that God crossed the bridge in the past. Now we have proof,” another  man said. His face was deeply lined from a life spent in the tropical sun. As quickly as they swarmed they dispersed as a new group of devotees approached and they returned to the business of selling.

The local feeling of Trinco is its real charm. Everything is built and used by locals. If you get there now you might still be able to experience it.

If you go

Safety:

Like all places in Sri Lanka there are still dangers associated with the recent civil war. However, security restrictions have been eased in Trincomalee and besides a few check points on the way into town I found the area to be very safe. Of course normal common sense should always be followed and you should probably not go out at night, not that anything is open after dark in this sleepy town.

Getting there:

Sri Lanka is a tropical country and is very hot during the dry season. Don't forget to drink plenty of water.

Travel by car or bus is your only real option. The road conditions are improving every day and a new road is being built from Habarana to Trincomalee along the A6 road. At the time of writing about half of the road has been completed and is beautiful wide, smooth road. The second half is still pot hole ridden, narrow and windy and still takes quite a bit of time to navigate.

If you don’t like long car rides, consider spending the night in Habarana (don’t forget to check out the sites nearby like Sygiria and the Dambula Cave Temples) which is a 5-6 hour drive from Colombo. The final drive to Trinco should take about 4 more hours.

When to Go:

April to September when the East Coast is the driest and the monsoon has shifted the West Coast leaving the waters and beaches in the East perfect for swimming.

Please leave a comment and share your stories, questions, or thoughts on the article.

Experiencing Sri Lanka’s Providence- Part I: Trincomalee’s Koneswaram Hindu Temple is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

My friend Megan who writes the blog See. Write. Live. nominated me to share my three best travel secrets on Todd’s Wanderings. The nomination is a part of Trip Base Blog tag in which the Top Bloggers’ Best Kept Travel Secrets will be published in a free ebook that will be shared with the “entire online community…” Hmmm, good luck with that!

1. Mount Koya, Japan

Everyone visits the major temples in Kyoto and Nara but these days they are little more than tourist attractions, albeit pretty ones, lacking that lived in, struggle for enlightenment feel. Mount Koya, the secluded mountain temple complex of Esoteric Shingon Buddhism in Wakayama Prefecture, is a hideaway for a more authentic massive temple experience. Located in the heart of the Kii mountains, it was founded in 816 by the monk Kukai, mythical founder of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. The complex houses 100 temples, many offering lodging, and the most famous cemetery in Japan leading to Kukai’s tomb. A walk through the cemetery is an otherworldly experience dominated by centuries old cedar trees and hundreds of moss covered stone Buddhas playing hide and seek in the mist.

2. Castlereigh Reservoir, Dikoya, Sri Lanka

3. Dili, East Timor

Now that I have shared my secrets it is time for me to “tag” five bloggers to participate in the “Three Best Kept Travel Secrets”. Your it:

1. Lili at Muza-chan’s Gate to Japan
2. Kirigalpoththa, name to remain a mystery…
3. Suzanne, THIRTY: Own up to Being Growing-up
4. Stephanie, Where in the world am I?
5. Marianne, Zen & the Art of Peacekeeping

My 3 Best Kept Travel Secrets is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

In August I headed up into the hill country with two friends to beat the heat in Colombo. Our destination was the Kelbourne Tea Estate just outside of Haputale. Kelbourne Estate has three English tea bungalows set high up in the mountains in the middle of a working tea plantation. You are waited on hand and foot, and can have dinner in your own dinning room surrounded by ever present green tea bushes.

Of course half the fun of getting to the hill country is driving up through the stunning scenery

That is until you get stuck behind a manure truck and two bused sizing up each other’s %$##*

We picked the Wildflower Cottage with three bedrooms and…

…what was supposed to be a stunning view….

Getting closer to the view as the clouds pass underneath us

Ah, there it is

At night the temperature drops enough to rationalize a fire in a tropical country

The front doors open up the living room to the most amazing couch view I have ever had

In front of me a cliff drops 50 feet down, and then another couple of miles straight down to elephant roaming plains

With tea trails crossing endlessly before us we couldn’t resist a nice hike

Windy

Scattered through out the trails are small villages of tea pickers

With no supermarkets in walking distance these guys supply the family with milk

Tea plantation kids

Hindu temple with a view

We finally had to force ourselves to stop as the views were never ending

There is never a dull moment, even on the way home

Tea fields

I highly recommend Kelburne Mountain View Cottages to anyone going to the hill country. It is a bit more expense than other bungalows (about $180 USD per night without food). However, the cottage accomodates up to 6 and the views are breathtaking. Of the three cottages, the Wildflower has the best views and atmosphere followed by Arie cottage.

If you go

Reservations:

Getting there:
A car is essential, either a hired car (which is easily sorted in Colombo), or your own. You can also take a bus to Haputale town and then a trishaw the rest of the way.

From Colombo : Take the Badulla/Bandarawela Road through Ratnapura (A4). At Haputale Town cross-road take the right turn on the Dambettene Road (approx. 1 mile). Turn at the Kelburne Mountain View board.

From Kandy : Take the Peradeniya/Badulla Road (A5) to Welimada. Turn right on the Welimada/Bandarawela Road to reach Haputale.

From down South: Take the A2 road to Wellawaya through Hambantota and turn left onto the Koslanda/Beragala Road , join the A5. Or, go straight to Ella on the A23 and drive to Bandarawela/Haputale.

When to go: The guide books suggest December to April are the driest months in the hill country and the South West. They are right, but if you want to the excellent views the staff at Kelbourne recommended the rainy season of May-September as the clouds below are regularly blow aside.

Weekend in Haputale Sri Lanka is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Considering that most of my posts are about travel and exotic locales it may be shocking to hear that I actually do have a job. Many of you may have wondered about what it is I actually do and what type of work a development/human rights/conflict resolution worker actually does. To shed a little light into my work life, and to help educate on some of the most pressing matters facing Sri Lanka, I am posting two recent publications that I wrote.

The first publication was released through my former employer, the Centre on Housing Rights and Evictions (COHRE). It deals with the High Security Zones in Sri Lanka and how they have been used to deny citizens their human rights to adequate housing, and return to their former homes and lands after displacement.

The second publication was written in my private capacity and published in the Forced Migration Review. It offers policy guidelines for the return of more than 280,000 internally displaced persons in Northern Sri Lanka. The article also highlights lessons learned from previous displacement and return events including the 2001 tsunami and the 2007 government pacification of Eastern Sri Lanka.

The full issue can be accessed here: Protracted displacement

Research and publication are just two of the many tools that development and human rights specialists use to help make an impact. It is often difficult for small agencies to get a seat at the table when key decisions are made. As most decisions are political in nature it is important to have as much information publicly available as possible. While nothing is guaranteed, reports and information help ensure that policy makers cannot just turn a blind eye and pretend serious issues do not exist.

Development and Human Rights at Work is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

While I was not too impressed with the view of the hotel from the street (like most places in Sri Lanka), the view of the water and the inside were fantastic.

At the entrance guests are greeted to a colonial war waging its way up the spiral staircase.

Feeling relaxed yet?

If you need help getting up the stairs I am sure these guys will help out…

Nothing to see here sir…move along.

Ahhhhh, all right, all right, you caught us…good one!

Once you make it past the carnage in the entrance, you can shut your door and relax in spacious rooms. I would recommend the rooms just above the dinning area as they are the largest of the standard rooms.

The views of the Indian Ocean are breathtaking.

Tropical downpours add additional beauty when you are stuck “inside.”

The lounge area on the water. Just behind is a huge pool.

We had to fight the traffic getting back to Colombo. At least we didn’t have to worry about the car stopping quickly and being stepped on by an elephant.

While there is no beach at the hotel, it is non-the-less a beautiful place to spend a few days. I would recommend it to anyone staying near Galle.

A Weekend at the Lighthouse is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Is it really the end of the war? What about the fight for human security and human rights? is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

…Continued from Journey to South Eastern Sri Lanka-Part 1

In the morning we drove an hour south to Tissamaharama and checked into our new hotel that would be our base for exploring Yala National Park and diving at the Great Basses.

Peacocks are everywhere

Hibiscus Garden Hotel. This is a fantastic hotel and quite affordable. The staff are great and very friendly. The pool was exactly what we needed to cool down after long days under the tropical sun.

Thankfully I left my gun and banjo at home

Our driver was great at finding animals

I seem to be missing something

Wild boars

We surprised a troop of grey langur monkeys

They blend into the trees perfectly

Nice beard

Spotted deer

Mugger crocodile

Painted stork

We spotted a leopard in the distance.

Ten minutes and a digital camera latter we decided it really was a leopard. Our guide said that we were lucky to get this view as many in the park didn’t see any leopards at all.

Elephant rock

As we were leaving the park we rounded a corner and came face to face with this beauty.

Getting the boats loaded up and organized

The lighthouse sits in the middle of the open ocean. Below we can already see fish as the deep ocean gives way to blue tropical waters.

Visibility was about 25-30 meters…nice!

The visibility was much nicer than my fogged over camera showed

A lobster

We decided to head back to the harbor after 2 dives. The wind had changed and the waves were starting to get bigger.

On the way back to Colombo we drove along the edge of Udawalawe National park. Who needs to enter when the elephants come right to road?

A thicker wire would be nice…

Journey to South Eastern Sri Lanka-Part 2 is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

We hopped in the car and hit the “main” roads. Luckily the traffic was light and it only took us 4 1/2 hours to reach our first hotel in the hill country.

Beautiful views the whole way up.

We stayed at the River Garden Resort. There was definitely a river and garden, but we never found the “resort.” The staff where friendly enough but rooms we expensive for what they were, and the area so damp that the sheets were always wet. By morning my hat was soaked through!

After a tropical downpour we decided to go for a hike. Armed with a hand written map we set off to find a nearby waterfall.

On the trail

Consulting the “map”

The waterfall in the distance

We bouldered our way up the river.

The ninja lessons are finally paying off.

Trying to find the path.

It is as slippery as it looks.

The waterfall. After all that effort we thought it would be bigger.

Nothing better than a cool mountain river.

The next day we hit the road again and headed out of the mountains.

Taking a break

On the A-4 we came across the Diyaluma Falls.

We arrived for a night at the Galapita ecolodge. There is no electricity and they serve only vegetarian food. Other then them not being ready for us we had a great and relaxing stay.

Around the lodge

A view of Galapita Gala in the distance

A river cuts through the property

You have to cross a suspension bridge to reach the other rooms

Open air hut

Relaxing

Breakfast

Tree house overlooking the paddy fields and mountains

From the tree house we spied two peacocks in a nearby tree

Waking up in the morning

To be continued with Yala National Park and the Great Basses…

Journey to South Eastern Sri Lanka-Part 1 is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

After almost 2 1/2 years I decided it was time to propose to Kay. As many who are following my wanderings are aware, I had been stuck in the United States for about 3 months as I waited for my work visa to be approved. During this time I began planning the proposal for March and relying on friends to help sort out the details as I sat halfway around the world.

Kay had no idea what was being planned behind her back. Once I returned I insisted that we go away for a weekend of scuba diving and relaxing on Unawatuna Beach. Kay had planned to do some work over the weekend….thankfully the computer never made it out if its case.

Diving turned out to be a disaster. The sea was rough, and we were the only people crazy enough to give it a try. Withing 5 minutes our dive master had deviated from our dive plan. He started going below 22 meters (we had set a 12 meter limit), and we eventually lost him as the visibility was only about 3-5 feet. Adding to the confusion there was a strong current. After searching for him for about 5 minutes we surfaced and headed back into shore, very unimpressed with him and the the dive company, but happy with each other and how we handled the situation.

After we packed up our diving gear we “decided” to climb to the top of the Buddhist temple that overlooks Unawatuna Beach. Kay still had no idea what was coming.

The pagoda at the top of the hill.

The views from the top are spectacular. Just past the rocks is the area where we went scuba diving in the morning.

Around the pagoda

Unawatuna below.

I am feeling really nervous at this moment, but hiding it well.

On the backside of the hill the views of the coast are spectacular. I waited for the tourists wondering around to leave before we had the place to ourselves and I proposed.

Kay accepted! I had the ring made in Colombo, by a diamond dealer that I was introduced to through a gemologist friend. Not only was the workmanship fantastic, but he had it ready in one week! I didn’t actually get the ring until one hour before we departed for the South, which was very nerve wracking.

Happy after the proposal. I had one more surprise for Kay….

Twelve friends waiting at a beach villa we rented for the weekend. Kay thought we were headed to a romantic getaway for just us.

With the blindfold removed Kay was surprised to find everyone waiting for her.

The celebration begins.

Beer in hand I can finally relax.

We rented out all 4 rooms at Amanda Villa so we had the place to ourselves.

The villa was right on the beach.

Ready for the party.

We had a traditional Sri Lankan lunch full of different curries and very spicy

The party continues by the beach.

The sea was rough but we still went swimming.

Drinks anyone?

Feeling content.

The rain moved in, but luckily it was just a passing downpour.

Kris helped plan the villa details while I was stuck in the US.

For dinner we had a full buffet of crabs, prawns and fresh fish.

We finished ourselves off with shots of tequila.

We weren’t the only ones up early in the morning.

All in all I can’t think of a better weekend I have had in a long time. Although now the competition is on for a nice honeymoon…

Sri Lanka Engagement Surprise in Unawatuna is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Rather than go on an established hike, we decided to pick a mountain and climb it ourselves. We chose this mountain across lake where we could use the tea trails to reach the top.

We drove around the lake and parked in front of a Hindu temple.

I guess this is the way. This would not be the only time we asked the locals for help.

The tea trails.

Two tea pickers on their way to work. The long sticks are laid across the tea bushes. Only the leaves above the sticks are picked to make sure the leaves are young and fresh.

As we wound our way up the mountain the lake began to reveal itself.

Life in the fields.

On the way up the mountain we met a group of women hiking to the nearest town, Maskeliya, to go shopping. They walk the whole way and the trip takes them four hours.

Our cabin is across the lake.

A group of children out for a walk with their parent’s helped point us onto the correct path. Kay fit right in with them.

After a two hour hike we made it to the top.

Adam’s Peak in the distance.

Our friend called his driver and made sure we had cold beers waiting for us at the end of the hike.

Resting sore feet and soaking up the views.

The Road to Maskeliya is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

It has been a busy few months and I have not posted to Todd’s Wanderings in some time. The following few posts will help close out my experiences in 2008 before I turn my attention to the new year.

In September, Kay and I took a weekend trip down to the secluded boutique hotel the River House just south of Bentota. In October, we headed down to Galle for the city’s annual Art Festival in the old Portuguese and Dutch era fort section of town.

The common room of the main house overlooks the river and invites nature inside. The hotel has only five bedrooms for seven acres of tropical gardens. There was only one other couple staying there so we felt like we had the place to ourselves.

A view of the main house from the garden near the river.

The garden below.

We stayed in the bungalow by the river. The other four rooms are up in the main house leaving us with our own house on the water.

Our room…we managed…somehow.

We had a great veranda overlooking the water where we ate all of our meals.

Kay and I took out the two person kayak and explored the river. Luckily Kay did need to use the life jacket.

Fish traps

The lizards are huge! Monitor lizards are related to Komodo dragons, and we ran into them everywhere on the river. A 4 foot long hostile lizard with sharp claws and teeth swimming next to you tends to help put a little extra effort into your paddles at the end of day.

Two cranes.

This beautiful old bull decided to relax in the fort as well.

A tight squeeze.

Inside a renovated building.

This Ministry, located in the fort, seems to be an expert in just about everything.

What you don’t see from the street.

A rooftop view of the fort.

My favorite exhibit was this intense color inside a completely white house. The artist, Mahen Chanmugan, adapts images of Ganesh, the Hindu god of wisdom and the Remover of Obstacles, to modern themes. A price listing can be found here.

Ganesha with fruit

We need a little peace these days.

Content with his place in the house.

River House and the Galle Art Trail is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

In the end of July, Kay and I and some friends packed up the car and wound our way up into the hill country for some cool weather, mountain views and a porch on the lake. We returned to Dikoya, just outside of small hill country town Hatton, where we spent the night after climbing Adam’s peak earlier in the year.

Driving through Hatton we pass a statue of Ganesha.

A common view from the road making the drive up and back a vacation to itself.

All of the tea pickers tend to be older women working long hours and carrying heavy loads. Don’t ask me why she has a fishing pole…

A Hindu shrine clings to the side of the road, and the edge of a mountain.

Kay and I with Angles Falls behind us. We stopped here for some tea and the view at a small tea house across the street.

Really….really!? Beer lovers are you going to stand for this?

I hate to give this place away and make it more popular, but this is the best place I have stayed in Sri Lanka. The staff is great, the food delicious, the views spectacular, and it is “probably” the best in the up country…

The porch…yes, we lead tough lives.

The view from the porch. With no one around the lake is calm and silent.

Our friends brought their cute (if hyper) dog Portia

A view from behind the cabin

The fellas

A beautiful old tree with a shrine greets us as we leave the hotel and head home

Hill Country Get Away is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

In early July I took a trip down to the southern cost of Sri Lanka to the old fort city Galle and the surrounding beach areas. It is easy to forget how beautiful the Sri Lankan coast line is when you live in Colombo and are surrounded by endless cars all fighting to impose their own individual traffic rules on you.

Just a 3 hour drive south of the city and you are greeted by empty tropical beaches, cocktails at sunset, and windy walks along the old fort walls of Galle.

During the monsoon season the sea is predictable only in is inconsistency and dangerous rip tides. However, it is always nice to have a beach all to yourself.

This area is a calm, swimming area from October-May. Locals sit on the wooden sticks and fish off of them during set times of the day. The fishing spots have been handed down for generations.

And coconuts cost only 30 cents each!!

The fort walls were first built by the Portuguese in the early 16th Century and added to by the Dutch and British as the city changed hands throughout the centuries.

Entering the fort you leave the chaotic modern streets for the planned cobble stones roads and narrow alleyways of a walking city

This barge seems to have drifted in too close and was stuck on the shallows near the fort wall

Two Buddhist monks

Out for a stroll

The light house guides the way into the harbor

The narrow streets leave little room for cars to squeeze by each other

An old church from the Dutch period

Galle: Old Fort City by the Beach is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

In March I escaped the crowded city of Colombo and set out with three friends to climb the most famous religious mountain in Sri Lanka. Called by many different names, Adam’s Peak, “the place where butterflies die,” and Sri Pada (“sacred footprint”), the mountain is the second highest in Sri Lanka and is a center of religious pilgrimage for Buddhist, Hindus, and to a lesser extent Christians and Muslims.

Adam’s Peak

The conical peak looms 2,243 metres (7,359 ft) above the surrounding mountains and is one of Sri Lanka’s most celebrated backdrops. Near the summit a 1.8 meter rock formation in the shape of a footprint is celebrated by Buddists as Buddha’s footprint, by Muslims as Adam’s (of garden of eden fame), and by Hindu’s as the Godess Shiva’s footprint. We decided to join the crowds and make the long climb up in the dead of night in order to catch the sunrise from the top. However, to get to Adam’s Peak we first had to travel 3 hours by windy narrow roads up into Sri Lanka’s stunning hill country.

The road winds its way up into the mountains as a rest stop clings to the side of the mountian

Along the way we pass countless tea plantations, beautifully terraced mountains surrounding aging tea factories

The road narrows the farther we climb, but the driving etiquette stays the same…me first!

Just one of the many views from the car

Of course Sri Lankan bus drivers can always find a way to spoil the peace and quiet

Curving road through a highland tea plantation

A view of Adam’s Peak from below the tea plantations

After driving through the small town of Dalhousie at the base of the trail head leading to Adam’s Peak, we reached our guest house, the Green House. For only 600 rupees (about $6) a night we had a place to leave our bags, get half a nights sleep, eat delicious food and take freezing cold showers when we returned from the mountain the next morning.

Kay, Hannah and Naoko relax on the porch after our long drive. We arrived in the late afternoon and decided to explore the town a bit before dinner.

The town is crowded with pilgrims either preparing to climb or having just descended.

The narrow streets sold every nick-nack you could imagine, from fake Nike windbreakers (see my climbing attire!) to pictures of Elvis and babies….somehow pictures/posters of airbrushed babies are a huge seller here.

Ceramic dogs and lions line a street stall

After a delicious vegetarian dinner (no meat or alcohol is allowed within the vicinity of Adam’s peak) we tried to get some sleep before waking up at 12 am to start our climb. The day before was a full moon day (a Buddhist holy day called “poya”) and we were worried the climb would take us 6 hours with all of the people mulling about. We had met a group of climbers at our guest house who had climbed the day before and it had taken them 8 hours to reach the top!

Trying to figure out why they are awake

In the dead of night we woke up and went about packing our bags and putting on layers. The evening was quite and crisp, the pungent smells of wild flowers and burning wood eased our groggy senses as we set off down the path.

The path was beginning to get crowded already as we reach the main gate which marks the beginning of the holy mountain.

The climb up was slow and painful. Not so much for the 5,000+ steps we had to climb, but for the hundreds of mountain huts that lined the path and blared loud Sri Lankan music into the surrounding stillness. It was a like a Bollywood movie, in the dead of night, with hundreds of weary climbers, no dancing, and without the ability to switch channels…

The path ended up not being as crowded as we feared and we made it to the top in just under 4 hours. It was misty and wet at the top so we camped out at the last mountain hut before the summit. Kay and Naoko are enjoying the hot tea as we sat and waited for dawn to arrive.

An hour before down we decided to leave the mountain hut and try to get a good place at the top to watch the sunrise.

At the top of the mountain the temple was packed with worshipers waiting for the sunrise
.

The fog was so thick that the sun never appeared. A bit disappointed we waited around for 2 hours before deciding to head back down the mountain. Regardless, it was very nice to feel the calm of early morning as so many pilgrims waited patiently for the morning to arrive.

On our way down the clouds broke for 15 seconds just as the sun began to rise. Movement down the mountain came to a screeching halt as hundreds of hikers dug into their bags for cameras in a frantic race against the moving clouds.

Further down the mountain we broke through the cloud cover and began to glimpse the beautiful scenes surrounding us. You can just make out a large waterfall in the distance.

A pagoda competes with nearby peaks

This little guy belongs to the Green House and followed us all the way up to the top and back down again. The temple attendants where not very happy to have him walking around and we constantly had to find him in the throng of people at the top. Unfortunately he got into a fight with another dog on the way down and was bitten pretty badly. Luckily he was ok and the owner of the guest house told us he makes the climb once a week these days, but used to do it everyday when he was younger.

Some of the steps we climbed

Our legs shaking by the end, we arrived back at the main gate happy to be finished and with much less clothing as the sun warmed the morning air.

After taking showers and relaxing a bit we headed away from Adam’s Peak to the town of Dickoya and the Castlereigh Reservoir were we found a great little cabin by the reservoir to stay called the Castlereigh Family Cottages. Located on a small tea plantation the service was great and the views spectacular. Relaxing on the porch with a cool breeze and beer was exactly what we needed (and deserved) after our long hike.

Our cabin.

The view from our porch.

The water was so calm it was difficult to tell the difference between reflection and reality.

The reservoir cuts into the tea plantation.

The beautiful Warleigh stone church was built in 1862 and overlooks the reservoir. We just happened to be lucky enough to come across this church on Easter Sunday.

A view from the back of the church

Tired but feeling very relaxed we headed back to Colombo Sunday afternoon wondering why we didn’t come up into the mountains more often. They say that you are a fool if you don’t climb Adam’s Peak once, but you are an even bigger fool if you climb it twice. I guess I must just be a fool as I hope I get the chance to climb the mountain again, and maybe even catch a proper sunrise in the process.

Where Butterflies Go to Die is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

In mid-March I traveled the 314 km (198 miles) road to the eastern district of Batticaloa. The trip took over 9 hours by car and while bumpy and long passed through some of the most beautiful areas of Sri Lanka I have ever seen. Lush jungle, sweeping plains, soaked marshes, and jagged mountains rolled by as we traversed from west to east coast. Through a stretch of national park peacocks ran unashamed along the side of the road, foxes scurried for cover as we approached, and an elephant stood uncompromising beside a rural store.

In 2007 the Sri Lankan government militarily liberated sections of Batticaloa (and the rest of the East) that used to be controlled by the LTTE (the Tigers). The resulting mass displacement of people fleeing the constant mortar attacks and heavy ground fighting created a wave of internally displaced persons (IDP) throughout Batticaloa. Over 300,000 people fled their homes with about half having been recently returned to demolished homes and destroyed livelihoods.

Once you leave the confines of the “safe” areas of Sri Lanka the military presence becomes even more apparent. Living in Colombo I thought I was used to a highly militarized way of life, but the people of Batticaloa face many more intrusions into their daily lives. The road south into Batticaloa is lined with check point after check point, framed by beautiful landscape, desperate IDP camps and watch towers and militia encampments constantly on the lookout for LTTE infiltrations.

Burned out Hindu temple along the road side

Many areas even along the side of the road have yet to be de-mined, let alone the more rural areas where many people have been returned to

At each checkpoint you are interviewed. Asked where you are going, who you are, and what your business is. 100 meters later you are subjected to the same scrutiny even through no new roads connected to the main road in between check points. Five minutes later the same routine unfolds. Compared to those traveling on public buses we had it easy. A few responses, ID verification and we were on our way. Others on the bus are forced to leave the bus and are search individually before being allowed to proceed. With over 20 checkpoint in just one hour of driving you can imagine how long it can take to get anywhere.

Soldier at a check point

Batticaloa town itself is beautifully set on a expansive lagoon that opens to the ocean. Thousands of birds fly in and out of the lagoon searching for food along side local fishermen in small wooden boats. After recent local elections (the first in over 10 years) a sense of normalcy is returning to the area. However, Batticaloa’s future is still uncertain. Barb wire winds itself around and through the town, IDP camps dot the area, and the government supported local militia (a break away faction of the LTTE) is still reportedly recruiting child soldiers into its ranks.

Many people have been forced from their homes by the military and the police without receiving any from of compensation or recourse. Their homes have become bases and barracks.

Provincial elections are slated for May 10th. With various ethnic and religious groups vying for power, and with an increasingly politically untenable central government trying to keep its political coalition from falling apart, the future of the East is quite uncertain.

With no answers to give, all I can hope is that the next time I visit security will mean increased economic opportunities, a roof over everyones heads, and plenty of food on the table; not barbwire, strings of checkpoints, and an increased military and militia presence.

Glimps of a free Batticaloa is a post from: Todd's Wanderings