Recently I took a mixed group of diplomats, aid workers and tourists on a hiking trip to Kosovo‘s most remote region, Dragash. Not only is the area the focus of my upcoming first guidebook (The Mountains of Dragash, Kosovo: Hiking and Nature Tourism Guide) but is now the area where I’m working for the United Nations to develop a rural tourism strategy for the Municipality.

How to Take Stunning Travel Photos With your Iphone

The trip and guidebook are secondary to my true secret, how I use the Iphone to take amazing photos. OK, OK, I think they are amazing anyway. While I’m also guilty of lugging around a proper camera, many of my most beautiful shots come from my easy to pocket Iphone.

I use a photographic technique (is it a technique if it is an app?) called High Dynamic Range (HDR) which takes photos at varying light levels and merges them together. The effects can be stunning and with a simple App called TrueHDR ($1.99) all the processing work is done for you. Of course you still need to frame, pick beautiful views, and keep a steady hand. Dragash, Kosovo really is this beautiful, but with a little help it’s possible to draw out the wild beauty of the area even further.

Enjoy the photo essay and leave your best travel photography tip in the comments below.

Our beautiful camp site at the base of a 2 river canyon system

 The hiking guide will be available soon, and for FREE! Check back soon for details.

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Dragash Kosovo Backcountry HDR Photo Trip is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

You can walk here in just 5 minutes from the village of Brod

Working for the United Nations and as a Travel Blogger/writer has its moments…sometimes they intersect in an amazing experience or opportunity that just leaves me wondering how I ever became so lucky. If anyone ever tells you a dream job does not exist, share this link with them and then get working on making it come true. In the run up to my new guide book release (The Mountains of Dragash, Kosovo: Hiking and Nature Tourism Guide) I led a group of 30 people into the Dragash back-country for a weekend of hiking, camping, and getting back to nature (ie getting very wet on the hike in and out). The trip was part of a larger effort to develop a nature tourism strategy for the isolated Municipality of Dragash, and to create a series of value chains to help locals benefit from increased tourism. The project is sponsored by the Finish Government, and is being implemented by the United Nations Development Programme.

Hiking in Dragash

If you don't want to carry all your gear you can hire horses in the village of Brod

We have been working on this hiking guide for about a year now and I have written about hiking in Dragash a number of times on Todd’s Wanderings as the work has progressed. Some of the hikes include:

Brod to Mount Cule

Brod to the Old Macedonian Smuggling Pass

Restelica to Brod

You will notice a pattern here as the picturesque village of Brod features heavily in my hikes. The beauty of this little village, tucked into a protective valley and wrapped lovingly in a series of crisp rivers, is undeniable. Add in the cultural traditions of the locals, numbering about 1,000, delicious cheese, succulent lamb and a dramatic landscape accessible just a few minutes from town and the tourism potential becomes clear.

Our little camp site in a very large valley

The hike below is the same one that we arranged for the 30 person weekend. The text is the same as you’ll find in the soon to be published hiking guide, due out in July 2011. The Guide contains 12 of my favorite hikes and 3 mountain biking trails around Dragash Municipality, along with tourism information, easy to follow maps and local knowledge. Oh, did I mention it will be free both Electronically and for a limited time in Print? Yeah, I know, pretty amazing.

If you are looking for a more serviced experience feel free to contact me and I’ll can pass along your message to a contact person in the village. We organized horses to pack up our tents, and for food to be prepared for dinner and breakfast the next morning. This is just the beginning of  mountain tourism in Dragash and we are hoping to lay the foundation for sustainability where locals benefit monetarily, the environment benefits from conservation and tourists have a unique amazing experience.

BROD to LAKE SHUTMAN/ŠUTMAN

This is one of the best known hikes in the Brod region with a well worn path, and stunning views through the Brod Gorge and into the southern rolling alpine fields where Lake Shutman/Šutman lies. The lake is more of a pond and is shallow with a muddy bottom but beautiful nonetheless. These small lakes are called mountain eyes due to the resemblance of human eyes when viewed from the mountains above. This hike can also be combined with 2 other hikes in the region, Mt. Vraca or the 3 Peaks hike, which begin and end at Lake Shutman/Šutman. The lake also provides a nice place to camp for those wanting to explore more of the southern area of Dragash/Dragaš.

A larger map will be available soon

STARTING POINT/ ENDING POINT: Arxhena Hotel or Old Road near Brod

STARTING ELEVATION: 1384 meters

HIGHEST ELEVATION: 2120 m.

DISTANCE: 8.82 Km.

DURATION: 6-7 hours round-trip along the same path

DIFFICULTY: Easy. There are very few steep parts to this hike.

Hiking Route Description

You have two options where to start. You can either start directly from Arxhena Hotel and climb up the steep ski slope behind the hotel which meets the path further on; or you can start from the beginning of the main path along the Old Road closer to Brod which is longer but has a more gentle climb up into the mountains. If starting from the Old Road, follow the main dirt road out of Brod towards Arxhena Hotel with the river on your right hand side.

After the last house between the hotel and the village, just past the rusted skeleton of an old car on its side under a tree, the river passes under the road. As the river moves to the left side of the road you will see a small concrete water-tap structure on the right and the power lines begin to diverge from the road. Turn right here and follow the grass road uphill following the wooden electrical poles. This is the start of the Old Road to Macedonia that was never completed. Eventually the grass route will turn to a dirt and rock path. Follow this further into the valley until you are directly above Arxhena Hotel. It is here that the ski slope intersects with the main path.

I love a nice mountain lake. These post glacial lakes are often called mountain eyes as they look like eyes looking up into the sky when seen from the mountain tops above.

Continue following the well-travelled path south into the river gorge. Make sure you stay high up on the path and do not descend to the river and cross it. There is a path on the other side of the river but it is more difficult and does not lead directly to the lake. More than two thirds of the way to the lake you will see a beautiful waterfall where the river rushes out of a narrow rocky gap. The top of the waterfall has a nice area to rest and have a picnic. You can access this area by leaving the path behind after the waterfall turning left, crossing the river at its highest point and then walking back to the waterfall. See the map for further indications, as there is no dedicated path to the waterfall from this side of the river.

After passing the waterfall you will come to a point where the path becomes narrow and less clear. This is also where you will see a shepherd’s building which doubles as a sharr dog breeding hut. Stay away from the building, as sharr dogs are very protective, even if they are cute when they are young. Stay closer to the mountain on your right and you will eventually make out the path that leads out of this valley and up into the valley with small but beautiful Lake Shutman/Šutman.

What do you think? Would you visit Kosovo and Brod?

Camping and Hiking in Kosovo’s Backcountry: Brod to Lake Shutman is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

It’s hard to know what is on and off the beaten path these days. Most travelers get their information from the Internet (yes, including you right now) in a way that was never possible before with regular guidebooks. But with the proliferation of information is there still a beaten path? Or are we all beating down the grass as we wander freely here and there depending on the whims of a Google search?

Yes, it really is this beautiful!

Whatever the answer is, for most people Albania as a country is off the beaten path and is just starting to open up to tourism. Travel to the northern mountain regions, where the fastest way to travel is by lake ferry, or by foot, and you can be pretty sure you are off the beaten path. I heard about the Komani Lake Ferry in Kosovo and decided to give it a try. It is by far one of the most beautiful, and gritty ferry rides I have experienced. In fact I’d even call it a classic boat journey that most people should experience at least once in their lives. The journey is not made easy for tourists as it caters to residents and traders traveling down to the coastal areas. But it will by far be the highlight of your trip to Albania. The bonus is that you can easily combine this with a hike in Northern Albania, or a trip to or from Kosovo. These are all places most people would consider off the beaten track, although to be honest there were plenty of tourists sitting ride beside my wife and I!

Riding the Ferry on Albania’s Komani Lake

Komani lake was Albania first major hydro electric project in 1970 and helped the country not only become a net exporter of energy, but also created an amazing winding system river system of turquoise waters, staggering cliffs, and remnants of a life cut out of a savage land where journeys are measured in days rather than hours. There are no cities or towns along the ride, only solitary houses

The Komani Ferry is large enough to carry 50 cars, and scores more passengers. It travels only 2 times a day and leaves from the western side from the town of Komani (kind of near Shkodra) at 10 am and earlier from the eastern side from Bregluma (near the small town of Fierza) at 8 am. The ferry may depart or arrive half an hour earlier than suggested as the above schedule is not fixed!

Um...psst...your tie is a bit short...

The timing means that it’s impossible to take the ferry south in the morning and then have time to explore and return on the same day. But the magic of the lake is the ride itself and can be combined with any number of other activities, from visiting the castle town of Shkodra, to hiking the remote mountain passed from Valbona to Thethi.

We drove 5 hours from Pristina on a Friday down to Shkodra on the new highway and in the morning took the ferry back towards Kosovo. Unless you have massive amounts of time, a car is a necessity on this trip due to the lack of public transportation and the remoteness of the ferry terminal itself. In fact, the last 20 km to the western ferry port took nearly 1-½ hours due the rugged road conditions. You will definitely want a 4-wheel drive vehicle for this trip.

Don’t miss the Komani Ferry!

Start the day early and arrive at least an 2 hours before the ferry is scheduled to depart if you are driving a car. The parking area on the western end is just past the damn and you need to travel through a hand carved tunnel to reach the small port area. There is not a lot of room to park here (they charge you for this too! but only 50 lek) so it’s best to get there early and have a coffee while you wait. There are a few small shops along the water. You can also buy drinks and snacks on the ferry, and it’s wonderful to watch the organized chaos surrounding the loading and unloading.

The ferry usually departs a little late as the last inches of space are negotiated to fit as many cars and buses on as possible. There are also smaller boats available for hire and many people use them to move into the mountains in the summer for the harvest. Life in the region is harsh, and money and resources are hard to come by. Many families will toil on their land for the 3 months to earn 20-50 Euros and stock up their food for the winter.

Beer and Cows, this guy has the market covered!

The ferry ride itself lasts about 2 ½ hours and travels through stunningly remote areas, along steep cliffs and mountains that give the Accursed Mountains their name (an area so remote and harsh it could only have been created by the devil). This is one of those experiences that are slowly fading from our hyper connected and efficient world. It’s a place where trade and sweat still have a caloric value and you can feel the worth of your ticket (400 lek per person and 1200 lek per square meter of car…don’t worry they will calculate it for you). All in all I was very happy to experience the trip, and would recommend it to anyone with the time and spirit. Combine the trip with a more in depth travel to the Balkans and you’ll be sure to leave wondering what the hell CNN and BBC are going on about. The region and its people are lovely, and you’ll be hard pressed to find more genuine locals and landscapes.

Have you been to Albania? Would you go? Where did you go off the beaten track recently?

Off Track on the Northern Albanian Komani Lake is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

I know what you’re thinking: “Slovenia, where the hell is that?” Or possibly: “What, only 2 reasons, is that all you’ve got? Are you getting lazy Todd? I mean all the other Top [insert arbitrary number] Lists have WAY more than just 2.”

Ohhh, pretty picture. Ready to listen yet? The Church of the Assumption on Lake Bled

Truth be told, I never thought about visiting Slovenia until recently. My other little secret is that there are more than 2 reasons to visit this amazing country but you shouldn’t need any more than these two. Bam! How do you feel now? Feeling silly? Ready to trust me? Huh? Huh?

Also, this is not a post about everything Slovenia has to offer. Over one week I only went to two places. Turns out it was enough to get me itching to head back. I took a week off work and headed into the mountains to work on my Shikoku Pilgrimage book. I’m happy to report that I got three more chapters finished and still had time to hike the incredibly accessible Alps.

First things first, where is Slovenia

Map courtesy of http://www.icannga.com/icannga11.php

Somehow this little country does not receive the attention it deserves. It’s one of Europe’s smallest and shares borders with Croatia, Italy, Austria and Hungary. Sounds centrally located to me. Add a small coast, the stunning Julian Alps, and about 500 castles, manors and ruins, amazing wine, food and the infrastructure of any major European country and you start to wonder why more people aren’t talking about it. Oh, and did I mention it’s still relatively inexpensive? Well it is. So much so that I found it cheaper than my recent trip through Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast.

First Reason

The Autumn colors only added to the magical feel of this place.

The thousand year old Bled Castle sits majestically  on a rocky outcrop 139 meters above the lake of the same name. In the middle rests and island holding the Church of the Assumption, evoking further images of fairy tales and dragons that haunt the capital city of Ljubljana, a mere 45 minutes drive away. Imposing mountain peaks surround the lake valley to round out the incredible charm of this little town and making it a must for any serious Europe traveler. The only down side is its so beautiful that the crowds can get quite thick so it’s best to visit in the Spring and Autumn.

The best way to appreciate the natural and architectural beauty of Bled is to walk around the lake. A walking path circles the lake and at an easy pace takes about 90 minutes, longer if you get stuck taking one breath taking picture after another. Not even the ugly Yugoslav era concrete hotel monstrosities can take away from the magic of this special place.

Second Reason

Do I even need to write anything here?

Don’t get me wrong, I love Bled. But too many people can ruin a good thing. Luckily all you have to do is drive a pleasant 26 kilometers to the south to reach the glacial lake Bohinj. Resting in a near vertical mountainous embrace lake Bohinj is the perfect get away to commune with nature and experience amazing Slovenian hospitality. Hiking paths start from just about everywhere around the lake, leading both the casual and the extreme hiker into the heart of the Julian Alps.

The Church of St. John the Baptist in Bohinj. Amazing views from of the lake and interesting frescoes from the 14th century. Some of the angles inside of what look like fangs for teeth!

I spent 7 days here and loved every minute of it. The lack large hotels is not a negative at all as there are plenty of apartments in traditional house for rent (called sobe). The peace and quite, as well as fresh mountain and lake air can rejuvenate any soul and get you itching to explore the paths that bring you along impossibly green rivers, through sight gorges, and to the top of rocky peaks.

So, did you like my 2 reasons. Of course I slipped a few more into the mix without you even knowing. You were probably too distracted by the pretty pictures

If you go

Whoa, if? I haven’t convinced you yet. Well here are couple more reasons.

Getting there

Simple and easy. Just fly into Ljubljana airport, gather you bags and then walk across the street to the next building that houses the rental car agencies. There is about 8 of them so shop around to get the best deal. My first offer was 430 Euro for 7 days…at the “budget” car agency. I finally settled on 190 Euros. Coming form Kosovo where you pay 60 Euros per day, this was like heaven.

The drive to Bled only takes about 45 minutes on a nice highway. Drive another 40 minutes in to reach Bohinj. This is a perfect trip even if you only have a weekend.

Where to stay

The view from Pension Stare

This is a bit more tricky. I wanted to avoid large impersonal hotels so I just drove to the end of the lake and found a pension. There are lots of apartments and rooms available and you can learn more at the tourist information center. But be warned they are not so helpful other than giving you a book of the places available. Having a car to search them out helps.

I stayed at Pension Stare, at the end of the lake, and would recommend it to anyone. I usually don’t promote individual places (for free that is , but they treated me so well I can’t help it. The Pension boats a delicious dinner, simple but comfortable rooms, and incredible views of the surrounding mountains. It’s family run and has been in business for 25 years.

Have you been to Slovenia? Tell us what you loved about it, or what you are dying to see.

2 Reasons to visit Slovenia: Bled and Bohinj is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Video instructions on how to hike from Brod to the old Macedonian Smuggling Pass. This is an extra resource for those looking to hike this path and would like to see what it is like and where the map will take them. For a written explanation on how to reach the mountain pass, including a map click this link.

What do you think? I’d love to hear your comments on the video and the beautiful area of Brod, Dragash.

VIDEO: Hiking Dragash, Brod to the Old Macedonian Pass is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Amazing view of the Mountains in Macedonia just over the border.

Winter is approaching but there are still a few weeks left of crisp clear hiking air awaiting you in the mountains of Dragash. Located in the southern end of Kosovo, Dragash is an oasis of untouched natural beauty and traditional villages sandwiched between the borders of Macedonia and Albania. Ignored by the Yugoslav government, the area never received development money for tourism despite its wealth of flora, fauna and cultural traditions. Luckily, this also spared the region the communist era concrete hotels and restaurants that mar similar regions in Kosovo. To help spur sustainable eco-tourism to the region and highlight an untouched wonder in the Balkans I’m helping to write a hiking guide to the Dragash Region implemented by the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) and funded by the Finland government.

What better way to experience this traditional area than by hiking to the old pass to Tetovo, Macedonia. Not only can you walk the old smuggling paths trodden by horses burdened with heavy oil barrels during the sanctions placed on Yugoslavia, but the view into Macedonia with its dramatic mountains and sheer cliffs is unforgettable. The oil barrels from this period are still used to cover houses and storage areas in the region.

Oil barrels are used as walls and roofs on many of the old houses in Brod

This hike is harder and longer than the others I have posted (Restilica to Brod and  Brod to Mt. Cule) but worth every second. For those less ambitious the first part of the hike is easy, nestled in a gorgeous river valley and makes an easy 1 1/2 hour round trip hike.

Old Macedonian Pass

Click the map for a larger version. The trail is not marked so be sure to print out a copy of the map.

STARTING POINT: Brod, from the cemetery

ENDING POINT: Brod, the Mt. Cule hiking path

TIME- 7 hours (long hike); 1 1/2 hours (easy hike)

STARTING ELEVATION- 1,384 meters

HIGHEST ELEVATION- 2,265 meters

DIFFICULTY- Hard or Easy (it’s your choice!)

The path starts on the eastern edge of Brod. Enter the town from the Dragash road and turn left when the road ends. Follow the river up past the mosque until you reach the edge of town with the cemetery above to the left. Climb up the steep hill until you see the source of the river flowing out of the narrow gorge.

Follow the river and the gorge for about 40 minutes until you reach a large boulder towering over the river. From here climb up the hill to the right until you are above the boulder and you see a path that takes you to a flat area (perfect for camping) and a spring to fill water bottles further on. This is where the easy hike ends and the longer hike continues.

You guessed it. Climb up the right side of the valley just after this boulder.

The first part of the hike is green and lush

The end of the hike is quite the contrast.

Follow the path through the valley until it ends at a river. Cross the river and climb the mountain following a small goat path up to the left of a sharp peak and around it to the right and then up, up, up. Your goal is the top of the mountain so feel free to get there any way that makes sense. Once you reach the top, after a long and steep climb, you will see the top on your right. This is where you will see the old wagon tracks and the remnants of a stone rest house. Keep going up to the right until you reach a drop off and magnificent views of Macedonia where Mt. Tito pokes its sharp head into the sky (yup we climber Tito too!). From here you start your return to Brod by keeping  Macedonia on your left and the valley you hiked through on your right far, far below. Check back on soon for a video description of the whole hike as well as a video of hiking/camping tips for the Dragash region!

A shepherd and his flock at sunset

Make your way until your see the point of Mt Cule (see earlier hiking article) to your left and follow the contours of the path and mountain until you reach Cule. Be careful not to go down the steep mountain as it drops suddenly and is dangerous. Keep on the goat path with Cule on your right across a deep valley and it will bring you around the backside of Cule and eventually down to the normal shepherd paths that lead back to Brod. From Cule head down and cross a small river and you will see a clear path. Just head towards Brod at this point and you can’t go wrong. Remember part of the joy of hiking in Dragash is finding your own way, which is very easy as no trees obstruct your view.

If You Go

No trick photography here. It really is a beautiful place.

Driving from Pristina it takes about 2 1/2 hours to reach Brod by car. Drive to Prizren and follow the one way roads through the city taking a sharp left at the city center and following signs for Kukes and Dragash where you will take a right hand turn to leave the city. Continue on the road to Kukes for about 15 km until you come to an intersection with signs pointing left to Dragash. Turn left and follow this road into the valley for about 30 km until you come to the  town of Dragash itself. Continue through Dragash center following signs for Brod. The road after Dragash winds its way through the mountains for another 20 minutes until you come to Brod, the last town along the road.

If you have any questions about visiting Dragash just post a comment below. Or share your stories and tips for visiting this wonderful area of Kosovo.

If you do visit, please leave a comment below as I will be sharing your experiences with the Mayor and the communities to help encourage them and show them the value of their resources.

Hiking Dragash, Kosovo: Brod to the old Macedonian Smuggling Pass is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Rivers and waterfalls are not the first images to come to mind when Croatia is discussed. Most people dream of exploring the ancient Venetian cities, dramatic islands and Roman ruins of the Dalmatian Coast. But located just a few hours drive from Split, near the amazing but underrated old city of Sibenikk, is a true natural wonder, Krka National Park. Take a break from century old monuments to explore the thousand year old monuments of nature.

Main waterfall, Skradinski buk

The Kraka river flows through a limestone gorge and at points spreads throughout an expansive forest. The area is made up of karst environments, which form when carbon dioxide dissolves with water on carbonate rock (limestone). Over a period of thousands of years this ongoing process has created unique geomorphological features on the surface of the rocks through which the Krka river flows. What? Basically, its a biochemical process that is constantly evolving and segmenting the river into an amazing array of pools, waterfalls and caves. Even more basic, it’s Awesome, Beautiful and one of the reasons I traveled to Croatia in the first place. I saw pictures of the waterfalls last year and became captivated with their beauty and number. My wife would say obsessed…but she’s not writing this article. Since you’re looking at the pretty pictures you’re probably not reading this anyway

Another section of the river

Flowing through the trees

Not tired of the beauty yet?

The main falls, Skradinski buk, are located just near the entrance of the park after you arrive by a beautiful boat ride. The walking path takes about 2 hours to complete and covers around 2 miles. You can stop doing the math in your head, trust me it really does take this long. You’ll find yourself stopping constantly to take pictures, marvel at the beauty, and if you arrive late, fighting your way through the crowds. There are other areas to visit in the park but all require you to shell out more Dinars and hop on another boat. These include a quite Franciscan Monastery with various small animals in the upper part of the river that is actually a lake, and further up another series of waterfalls called Roski slap. We found the first set of waterfalls to be enough, but it’s up to you.

A thousand little waterfalls

A view from above

Don't forget you can swim just under the main waterfall

Your gate way to Krka National Park is the wonderful little town of Skradin. This small town is where the ferry boat departs for the national park and  is a great place to spend a night or two. With small hotels, a marina for sailors making their way down the Croatian coastline, and a small beach on the river it’s a perfect place to relax and soak in the rural atmosphere while being able to meet a fresh load of travelers each night.

Ferry to Krka National Park from Srkadin

Get there early before the crowds show up

If You Go

A beautiful sun set in Skradin's Marina

Kraka is best in the summer when you can swim in the cool waters and breath in the fresh forest air. Just arrive early in the morning as the main viewing and swimming areas become crowded fast.

Amazing Waterfalls of Krka National Park, Croatia is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

I wish we had this car!

I love a good road trip. There is nothing quite as satisfying as cruising through a country’s winding back roads to really get to know the local landscape, people and discover spots that you would have missed arriving by air. Of course if you have even more time then riding a bike or walking can be even better ways to become intimate with your destinations. But a car provides a level of freedom and flexibility (motorbikes as well!) that allows you to explore extensively but also smell the air and fresh bread baking in the morning.

When we set off on our 9 day Western Balkan road trip we didn’t know what to expect. All we had was a map, a tent, a rough idea of where to go and few hotel bookings that kept us grounded but not constrained.  This was by choice as getting lost and having adventures are one of the best experiences in life, not to mention great blog article material .

Many people back in the US thought we were crazy and that the Balkans are still dangerous. They are not, or at least no more dangerous than NY city and I would argue much safer in many ways. You can cover a lot of ground in 9 days and we were determined to see as much of Croatia’s Dalmatian coast as possible, where we spent the bulk of our time. In the end we traveled over 1,800 km starting in Kosovo and driving through Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia and Serbia. We ate, drank and danced to the rhythm of the Balkans and arrived home safe, sound and energized. More detailed articles will follow on all of our destinations, but for now here are some of the highlights that should be included in any trip to the area.

Old City of Dubrovnik, Croatia

Undeniably the Jewel in the sparkling Adriatic sea, the old City of Dubrovnik and its massive walls should not be missed.

Magical and funky city of Split

Ignored by travelers until recently the old city of Split is at once Magical and funky. The atmosphere of sitting, eating, drinking and just living life among exposed Roman ruins is not to be missed

Romanesque Portal in Trogir’s Cathedral

This incredible portal into the Cathedral is the first example of nude sculpture in architecture in Croatia. The whole city which sits on a tiny island is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Forest River in Krka National Park

This beautiful park will leave you in awe as you walk and swim between rushing waterfalls and rivers running throughout the surrounding forest.

White Marble History of Zadar

The most northern city on the Dalmatian Coast the old city of Zadar is unique in its white marble roman design and its layers of exposed history.

Natural Beauty of Kornati Islands

150 uninhabited islands await as you cruise through the Adriatic sea. What trip to Croatia can be complete without a trip to the isalnds?

Monastic Magnificence of Ostrog, Montenegro

Founded in the 17th century by St. Basil, this is the most visited pilgrimage site in Montenegro. Clinging to a high cliff a visit here is packed with incredible views and throngs of worshipers praying for the healing miracles associated with the monastery.

Like all good trips this article needs to end as well. But fear not we will bring you on a guided tour of our travels through the Balkans soon enough. For more pictures from our trip visit Todd’s Wanderings Facebook Page for the complete view of this beautiful area.

We’d love to hear your thoughts.

Balkan Highlights: road trip from Kosovo to Croatia and back is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Beautiful canyon behind the village of Restelica where the path begins

Mountain shepherds, enormous Sharr Dogs, free roaming horses, pristine babbling streams and dramatic mountains are just a small taste of what awaits you in Dragash. Located in the southern end of Kosovo, Dragash is an oasis of untouched natural beauty and traditional villages sandwiched between the borders of Macedonia and Albania. Ignored by the Yugoslav government, the area never received development money for tourism despite its wealth of flora, fauna and cultural traditions. Luckily, this also spared the region the communist era concrete hotels and restaurants that mar similar regions in Kosovo. To help spur sustainable eco-tourism to the region and highlight an untouched wonder in the Balkans I’m helping to write a hiking guide to the Dragash Region funded by the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP). The last hike was a steep climb from Brod to Mt. Cule.

Easy Hike from Restelica to Brod (or the other way around)

Click the map for a larger version. The trail is not marked so be sure to print out a copy of the map.

STARTING POINT: Restelica (or Brod)

TIME- 2 ½ hours one way

STARTING ELEVATION- 1,492 meters

HIGHEST ELEVATION- 1,972 meters

DIFFICULTY- Medium

The villages of Brod and Restelica sit on opposite ends of a fork in the road that begins in the town of Dragash. Representing the southernmost villages at the end of their roads, and Kosovo, they are only about 10 km away from each other by the mountain trails but it takes more than an hour to reach the other village by car. Each village has its unique atmosphere and a hike through the mountain passes between the two is an easy way to explore both the surrounding nature and the character of the small villages dotting the Dragash region. Their isolation from each other has reportedly bred a healthy rivalry between the two villages. You will have to decide for yourself which town speaks closer to your own heart. No matter which you choose you are sure to fall in love with the surrounding mountains, sweeping grassy fields reminiscent of New Zealand, and a local population eager to host the rare visitor.

The village of Restelica

I would recommend starting your hike from Restelica as you start higher on this end and the pass is less steep to reach, allowing you to enjoy your hike down to Brod. This will also allow you to stay the night in Brod in the only hotel in the area, Arxhena. The hotel sits 3 km from the town of Brod on the way into the mountains. Their attempt to build an insanely steep ski hill has marred the surrounding beauty, but the staff is friendly and accommodating. Their lamb is delicious, fresh from the town of Brod, and don’t forget to try the salty Sharr cheese.

Starting from Restelica:

Enter the town until you reach a sharp left hand turn that switches back on itself. Follow this road up into the main part of town. Keep following the road until it turns right and leads you out of town to the South and then into a river valley (pictured at the beginning of the article). From here the walking path follows the river into the valley. After about 20 minutes you will come to a fork in the valley with a smaller river flowing into the larger from the left. Leave the path here and follow the smaller river up into the valley on the left. After about 100 meters a path will start on the left side of this river. Follow this up along the river to the pass that leads down to Brod. On the way up you’ll find a spring where you can refill your water bottles.

Meeting locals along the path.

Hotel near Brod and the insanely steep walk down to it. Careful its slippery.

Just before the top of the pass there is a Sheppard’s hut where a lot of Sharr dogs live. Give it a wide berth just to stay safe as Sharr dogs can be very territorial. Once over the pass follow the mountains down to the left. You’ll be able to see a rocky cliff in the distance, head toward this. You will hit the old road towards Macedonia. At this point you can either walk down the steep, eroded ski slope towards Hotel Arxhena if you are staying there, or continue to follow the old road north and it will eventually bring you gently down into the town of Brod.

Starting from Brod

Just follow the directions above in reverse. If you are starting from the Brod itself it is best to turn right across the river just outside of town to begin your climb along the old Macedonian road. If you start from the Hotel you are forced to hike up the ski hill, which is hot, dusty and very steep. Be careful not to follow the well worn path towards the glacial lake in the south. Instead once you are just above the hotel turn west and head up over the mountains were the path is smaller and made by sheep. Don’t worry too much about the path at this point, just get up and over the mountain pass and you will see where to go.

Don’t forget to look out for the wild goats that live in the cliffs above Arxhena hotel. They come out in the morning and later afternoon. A small restaurant called Ramce by the river (before you reach the Arxhena hotel coming from Brod) is a perfect place to relax and search for the goats. Ask the owner for this binoculars. They also serve great lamb so stop by on your way back from hiking. Just remember to call in advance and they need 1 hour to prepare the lamb properly (tel 029-285-119). They are only open in the summer but the scenery, cold beer, goat viewing and fresh meat can’t be beat.

Yes, this is when I was mobbed by sheep. They were more aggressive than the dogs on this hike!

If You Go

Early summer is the best time for the wild flowers and deep green grasses

Driving from Pristina it takes about 2 1/2 hours to reach Brod by car. Drive to Prizren and follow the one way roads through the city taking a sharp left at the city center and following signs for Kukes and Dragash where you will take a right hand turn to leave the city. Continue on the road to Kukes for about 15 km until you come to an intersection with signs pointing left to Dragash. Turn left and follow this road into the valley for about 30 km until you come to the  town of Dragash itself.

Going to Restelica: Just after entering Dragash and climbing the hill to the beginning of the town take your first right hand turn. Follow the road for about 40 minutes until you come to Restelica, the last town along the road.

Going to Brod:  Continue through Dragash center following signs for Brod. The road after Dragash winds its way through the mountains for another 20 minutes until you come to Brod, the last town along the road.

If you have any questions about visiting Dragash just post a comment below. Or share your stories and tips for visiting this wonderful area of Kosovo.

If you do visit, please leave a comment below as I will be sharing your experiences with the Mayor and the communities to help encourage them and show them the value of their resources.

Hiking Dragash, Kosovo: Restelica to Brod is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Thunder and lightening…no problem. No path, whatever. Once you see how beautiful Dragash, Kosovo is nothing will keep you away from the dramatic mountains and the fresh air. Here is a short introduction to the Dragash Hiking Guide, a project I’m working on to be the first to map out hiking routes in this remote area of southern Kosovo. Not a bad way to spend the weekend! More detailed Dragash, Kosovo Hikes will be up soon. As will the magic letters

What do you think? Would you visit Dragash, Kosovo?

On Top of Kosovo and Macedonia is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Mt. Cule. Just aim for the rocky peak and you can't get lost.

Mountain shepherds, enormous Sharri Dogs, free roaming horses, pristine babbling streams and dramatic mountains are just a small taste of what awaits you in Dragash.  “I’ve lived in Kosovo for 9 months and I had no idea there was anything this beautiful,” said a friend as we stood in the middle of a wind swept mountain pass barely an hours walk from the road.  Unfortunately, comments like this are all too common. This one was made by a woman who lived just a 30 minutes drive from where I led a small group on a hike through the sharp green Sharri Mountains in Dragash Municipality.

Located in the southern end of Kosovo, Dragash is an oasis of untouched natural beauty and traditional villages sandwiched between the borders of Macedonia and Albania. Ignored by the Yugoslav government, the area never received development money for tourism despite its wealth of flora, fauna and cultural traditions. Luckily, this  also spared the region the communist era concrete hotels and restaurants that mar similar regions in Kosovo. Unbelievably, over a decade after the NATO bombs ceased, the region is still relatively unknown as persistent rumors of crumbling roads and violent sharri dogs have conspired to keep the area isolated mentally if not physically.

I have spent the past few months hiking the mountains and valleys that make up Dragash and have fallen in love with the locals (populated mostly by the Gorani), the magical grass filled mountains and the traditional way of life. This is a region where cross border trade still takes place on the back of pack horses along old mountain trails. Dragash is easy to reach and accessible to all levels of hikers as the mountain trails are well worn from centuries of use. The difficulty is that there is hardly any information on where to hike, trail maps to plan your day, and markers to keep you on track.

To help remedy this I’m working with the municipality and the various towns to develop an Eco-tourism Guide to Dragash, funded and produced by the United Nation’s Development Program (UNDP). Not only will this great project enable me to keep doing what I love, hiking the mountains with only a GPS to guide the way and writing about it later, but hopefully it will increase the level of visitors to the region and improve the livelihood opportunities of the locals.

Sitting on top of Mt. Cule. Come and enjoy the view with me. Subscribe to my YouTube Channel.

To promote the area and help people get out hiking before the Guide is available I am hosting a portion of my hikes here on Todd’s Wanderings. As a special treat you now get to see me live in action as I have also started documenting the hikes by video.  Most hikes will come with video compilations that show the route with exciting commentary (when the winds aren’t acting up and you can hear me). Check out my first post above from the top of Mt. Cule to see what I mean about the absolute beauty of the area.

If you want to follow in my footsteps this hike is steep but easy enough.

Mt. Cule Hiking Details

Click the picture to see a larger map. Ignore the bottom red line as we wandered over to see horses. You can also follow the red path to the end if you want to peek over into Macedonia (definitly worth the view!).

STARTING POINT: The Town of Brod

DURATION: 4 hours round trip

ALTITUDE: Brod-1384 meters; Mt. Cule-2220 meters

DIFFICULTY: Steep, but you can go as slow as you want There is nothing technically difficult about this hike other than the steepness.

The path starts from the southern edge of the town, across the river and up the hill from the community center. The town is not very big so just ask anyone in town for Cule (pronounced “Chule”) and they should be able to point you in the right direction. You will find a lot of shepherds trails but follow the main ones up the mountain and towards the rock peak to the southeast (that’s Cule!). There are no markers here so print out the map and follow it the best you can. The good news is that there are no trees and it is easy to navigate by sight alone.

After about an hour of steep hiking you will come to a stream. Cross it and follow it up the mountain. You will see Cule up on your left.

Yes, it’s that easy! Water, food, snacks can all be bought in Brod or the town of Dragash. Don’t forget to buy sharri cheese as it is a local delicacy, just watch out as it is very salty.

A word of Caution about Sharri Dogs (Illyrian Shepherd)

Luckily I yelled “hello” as I approached the hut. About 9 dogs jumped up, hidden from view initially by the tall grass.

These beautiful dogs are only found in this area of the world. They are large and are VERY protective of the sheep they guard. It is their job after all. If you come across a flock of sheep or a shepherd’s hut, most likely there will also be Sharri Dogs around. A local shepherd gave me this advice:

Don’t worry too much about the dogs. They hardly ever bite humans, but you should keep your distance as they are protective of the sheep and their territory. When you are passing by just give them enough distance. They will bark, but don’t be afraid. Sharri Dogs are the best!

I’ve followed this advice and have not had any problems to date. Although I have had plenty of the dogs bark at me to their hearts content.

If You Go

Driving from Pristina it takes about 2 1/2 hours to reach Brod by car. Drive to Prizren and follow the one way roads through the city taking a sharp left at the city center and following signs for Kukes and Dragash where you will take a right hand turn to leave the city. Continue on the road to Kukes for about 15 km until you come to an intersection with signs pointing left to Dragash. Turn left and follow this road into the valley for about 30 km until you come to the  town of Dragash itself. Continue through Dragash center following signs for Brod. The road after Dragash winds its way through the mountains for another 20 minutes until you come to Brod, the last town along the road.

If you have any questions about visiting Dragash just post a comment below. Or share your stories and tips for visiting this wonderful area of Kosovo.or just say hello, I love hearing what people think.

Hiking Dragash, Kosovo: Brod to Mount Cule is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Yeah, that's right: "The Harem"

Ancient mosques, underground churches, bustling markets, crowded modern shopping streets, vibrant spices, KEBAB (yum!), and the boundary between Europe and Asia. Istanbul has it all and so much more. It is impossible to fully describe the vibe of this culturally wealthy city. As you wonder the streets centuries pass in a matter of steps, wheeling sea birds break up a skyline of minarets as the devout are called to prayer, a vast modern public transportation system shuttles shoppers, tourists and workers to the city’s amazingly distinct areas. Hawkers yell in the streets competing for attention and Turkish Lira. Rarely do I fall instantly in love with a place but Istanbul proved the exception. The sites, sounds, smells, people and culture touched something deep inside my chaotic nature. Rather than ruin the magic of the city with my words, I present a photo and video journey through the streets and monuments of Istanbul for you to experience  the magic of Turkey for yourself.

The Blue Mosque is beautiful anytime of the day. Even better is that fact that it is free to enter. Just watch out for prayer times when it is closed to tourists. I would recommend getting there early in the morning before the crowds.

Across the street is the magnificent Aya Sophia. Originally the cathedral of Constantinople from 360 until 1453  it was converted to a mosque before finally settling in a state of limbo between the two religions as a museum.

It is difficult to capture the humility one feels as you first enter the building. The exterior architecture plays tricks on the senses into believing the size is smaller than it really is until you walk through the door unprepared for the vastness of the building.

Less impressive size wise but infinitely more detailed is Topkapi Palace, the Sultan’s Palace. The mosaic work on the walls is absolutely stunning.

Underneath the main historical area of Sultanahmet is the Basilica Cistern. The buzzing of cars and tourist is left quickly behind as you descend into this water filled church. Search for the Medusa head at the end for the full mythological experience.

Once you’re tired of seeing how people used to live head to the Grand Bazaar to see how the living make a living. While it is not as grand and as traditional as I had imagined, it is a great place to buy souvenirs and try your hand at buying a carpet. Don’t worry, my next post on Istanbul will be a negotiator’s guide to buying a Turkish rug.

If your looking for a more authentic market experience head over to the Spice Bazaar where the cheap trinkets have not completely overrun the common necessities of Istanbul daily life.

Delicious and beautiful to look at!

If you really want to get a feel for how the locals live then walk around the side streets surround the Spice Bazaar. This is where the real shopping is done. The items may not be as sexy as a carpet or floor lamp, but the atmosphere makes up for it. Watching the action from nearby restaurants is perfect. Just check out my friend below, he really loves to sell his scarves…

www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEwWRA34VQQ

High Pitch Sales Tactics…protect your child’s ears!

Have you visited Istanbul? Turkey? What are your favorite places to visit and hidden recommendations?

Visual Guide to Istanbul’s Must See Sites is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

The medieval town of Kotor, Montenegro sits at the end of a placid bay that cuts deep into the surrounding limestone mountains. Often called the southernmost fjord in Europe, it is actually a submerged river canyon. Once you arrive in Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you’ll have to catch your breath before you can attempt to name the majestic scenery surrounding you. You’ll be surprised that more people haven’t discovered it. No matter where you look your senses are overwhelmed by either the natural beauty of the area and the depth of history from which the Venetian influenced town has emerged.

Kotor Old Town

The market just outside the town walls

While tourists flock to the nearby, cheesy and overdeveloped town of Budva to party throughout the summer, Kotor has managed to maintain a sense of history and tradition. There is still a nightlife to be found as delicious restaurants dot the bay’s shores and a few nightclubs rock the old town’s walls at night. However, Kotor’s old town has managed to maintained a lived-in feeling despite the restaurants and shops catering to the tourists who do come. The old city is nice to stroll around, but the main action still takes place in the shadow of the town’s walls where a wonderful market bursts to life each day. Plants, prosciutto, and olives are sold everywhere and you get the feeling that locals enjoy the market as much as the visitors. The olives are particularly delicious and I bought my fill from a seller dressed in loose white cotton paints, a tight red t-shirt and a classic sweater tied around his shoulders. He looked like he had just arrived from his stone house surrounded by olive fields overlooking the deep blue Adriatic Sea.

No matter where you go in Kotor three things are constantly in view, the sheer limestone mountains surrounding you, the calm waters of the bay, and the ancient castle fortifications that scale the mountain behind the town. The fortifications are a dizzying mix of ramparts, towers, gates, bastions, forts, cisterns, a church, a castle and steps…so many steps. Over 1,500 steps lead you on a steep climb through history to the top of the citadel. You are free to scramble and climb around the ruins in a way unheard of in other countries. The climb is steep and it pays to take along some water, and appropriate clothes for hiking. The climb only takes about 40 minutes but it usually takes longer as with each step another amazing vista opens up to appreciate. Start early as the afternoon sun can be quite hot and the path becomes crowded with visitors in high heels and jeans unprepared for the steepness and the heat.

The tower of the Church of Our Lady of Remedy

Once you’ve taken in the old city and fortress you are free to enjoy the laid back atmosphere of the surrounding towns and the beauty of the mountains and bay. I would recommend spending time on the southern side of the bay where the small towns are filled with traditional stone houses and accompanying rock jetties which protect the simple row boats used for fishing. This is where the true rhythm of the area can be felt as neighbors meet for drinks by the water while they wait for husbands to return from fishing.

While the nightlife in the old city heats up in the summer I prefer the smaller towns where you have a chance to meet the locals and indulge in home cooking. One night we stumbled upon a quite little place on the water called Lantern. Full of wood, local memorabilia and hospitality it’s run by an older couple who go out of their way to socialize. At some point in the night, after a number of drinks on the house, a local entered to play the electric piano. Without any hesitation the wife grabbed a patron from a table and started dancing in the middle of the restaurant. Her husband wasn’t far behind and before you knew it most of the four occupied tables were up dancing. It was simple fun that would have been lost in the more touristy areas closer to Kotor.

The tranquility of the water penetrates deep inside the visitor and local alike. It’s impossible not to become relaxed by the majesty of the steep mountains, the deep blue skies, and the easy pace of the locals. Life is celebrated every moment in Kotor as it springs from the fish in the sea, the rich olives from the hills and the deep red vranc wine full of body from the fertile mountains.

The view from the southern side of Kotor Bay

While the area is relatively unknown and visited compared to Dubrovnic, Croatia (about a 2 hours drive to the north) and the grand tourist areas of Italy across the sea, it pays to visit in the off seasons if you are looking for true peace and quite. Visit in the Spring or Fall when the little medieval town is not too full. Of course if you want to party with the best of them come in the Summer and don’t forget to hit the clubs and beaches in Budva as well. Kotor will be waiting to help relax your mind and ease your hangover when your done.

Kotor, Montenegro: undiscovered natural beauty and history is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

The road ends at the small Kosovar village of Letnica on the border with Macedonia. The white church of the Black Madonna watches over the town from a small hill. The large church only magnifies the empty feeling of the town where only about 100 people are left. Dirt roads snake into the town in between dilapidated stone houses. Despite the abandoned air the town is surrounded by forested rolling hills, giving the area a peaceful feel. The twittering of songbirds floated through the air as we climbed the small hill to the church.

The faithful before the Black Madonna

If the town was ever to have a crowd we found it as four men sat outside the church socializing and taking in the surrounding views. A middle aged man reeking of raki (the Kosovar equivalent to Italian grappa) shadowed us the whole way, pleading for money and trying to be best friends the way only drunk people can. Inside the church worshipers knelt below the 300 year old Black Madonna statue, made from blackened wood, praying for a child. Christian and Muslim couples alike venerate it and believe it can help childless families. On 14-15 August the town is beset by the faithful as more than 30,000 worshipers arrive to take part in the two day festival of the Assumption. Mass is held in multiple languages and the Madonna is paraded through the streets in between the thousands of newly pitched tents.

The miller weighing this corn flour

The town has an authentic charm that is not easily found anymore in Kosovo as residents rush to Prishtina or abroad in search of work. The money they earn is usually used to destroy old stone houses and replace them with incomplete exposed brick structures. Below the church along a small river sits a traditional mill owned by Froke Dokic, an older Croat miller. The water powered stone mill ground the corn he fed by hand into fine flour. There was nothing modern about the building and I couldn’t even find a light bulb ensuring a work day that started with first light and ended with dusk. Everything in the old mill was covered in fine corn dust, from an old typewriter, to traditional clothing, to a coke bottle used to hold candles, and even to old Froke himself. The miller is a solid man, not given to speaking much but friendly enough and quick to let you in to see the old mill at work. We placed an order of 5 kg of flour before we set off into the country side for a hike.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbLTYnHvZw

These beautiful houses were abandoned and left to crumble

It’s easy to leave the town and reach the surrounding hills. After just ten minutes we had left the town behind. Grazing sheep roamed the hills in the distance, and a pack of horses ate their fill right next to us as we took a short break near a natural spring gushing from the ground. A view of the church opened up before us below, revealing the rows of the pilgrim huts sheltered amongst its walls. As we wound our way higher into the hills we passed through a beautiful old village, filled with traditional stone houses and ottoman style windows and eaves. The heavy stone houses magnified the feeling of loneliness as we realized the town was deserted. Only one elderly woman was left, kept company by her sheep and goats. Supposedly the rest had left during the 1991 Croat war for independence, pushed by Serb hardliners to settle in abandoned Serb houses in Slovenia.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLf_5Qmy9ck

Excited to see what's over the hill

No one seems to want to farm these days and the land around us lay fallow, satisfying only the hungry bellies of the grazing sheep and horses. Well worn but unmarked trails disappeared into the forests and most likely into neighboring Macedonia. Like most of Kosovo, Letnica requires a bit of work to discover. It’s not a place built for tourists, but you are rewarded for your adventurous spirit through the pleasure of new discoveries down each unmarked path or over the next bucolic hill.  It’s a wonderfully peaceful place just one hour from Prishtina, perfect for a day hike and a picnic. On our way out of the village we stopped by the old mill to pick up our natural flour and thank Froke for the trouble. He didn’t say a word, just turned back to his mill and continued feeding it corn.

Getting There

Statue of Mary and the Kosovo countryside behind her

If you have a car read on…if you don’t have a car, go rent one or find a friend with one and then read on. Ok, ok, it’s possible to catch a bus to Ferizaj or Gjilan and then transfer to a local bus to Viti and then rent a taxi to take you the final distance to Letnica (don’t forget to arrange a pick up time or get the taxi’s phone number for your return trip).

If you took my earlier advice and you found a car, take the Pristina-Skopje highway heading south for about 35 km and follow signs to Viti. Once in Viti things get a bit more complicated. Drive around the main square and cross the river at the Steta Petka church, turn right around the secondary school and follow the road to the village of Verbovc. Once there bear right and follow the road to Letnica. Yes, you will get lost a few times so ask directions often.

Hiking in Letnica, Kosovo: A Black Madonna, abandoned villages and the old Croat miller is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

The base of Bansko Ski Area

Exhausted from an eight hour bus ride that spanned three countries, we pressed the reception desk at our hotel for an answer. “It’s after midnight, our kitchen is closed.”

“What about other restaurants nearby?”

“Walk done the road, you might find something open. We are located in the center of town.” Wow, that was unhelpful. The swank interior decorating of bright reds set on black and futuristic minimalistic Japanese inspired lines of the hotel lobby highlighted the staff’s unwillingness to get his image dirty with useful answers. This didn’t bode well for our stay. Luckily we were rescued by a perky eyed staff member who replaced her manager. We were pointed in the direction of a local tavern, one of many, and welcomed despite the late hour.

Huddling from the rain in the Old-Town

That’s Bansko, a bit rough around the edges but friendly and accommodating at its center. And for those who want to stretch their wallet in luxury this is the place. Set in the southern Bulgarian mountains close to the border with Greece, Bankso has always been associated with cheap prices, but now it’s becoming known for world class skiing as well. A crash in real estate speculation in 2008 has helped keep the prices down, but the residents of this former communist state kept themselves busy upgrading the town and ski area with the latest equipment and amenities. The speculation years left their scars in the form of half built hotels and high rise condominiums, but the old section of town was preserved reasonably well. There is still a rare lived in feeling to the old-town which makes a charming contrast to ski area and new construction just across the

cobblestone street.

While having a quaint town to retreat to after a long day on the slopes is important, the main attraction is the skiing itself. Bansko boasts modern lifts and facilities (rare in the region) and has a wide range of trails that will keep beginners to experts happy. A fresh blanket of powder awaited us on our first day which proved nicer conditions than our trip to the Dolomites in Italy. Though to be fair, the selection of rental equipment is not friendly to the advanced skier. Bring your own if you are picky.

I told you it was rough around the edges.

Yes, this is the line. There is another just like it in the other direction.

Another issue is the distance to the slopes from the center of town. While having the slopes at the higher altitudes does wonders for the snow conditions, access is a big problem. Only one gondola ferries skiers to the beginning of the slopes and the traffic jams are intense. Be prepared to fight your way into the cars. As we were putting our skies in the outside holders two others snuck in before us. After waiting in line for an hour we weren’t impressed with the local hospitality. The gondola opens at 8:30 am so if you don’t want to wait for an hour or longer get there early, and bring some muscle.

The skiing and the views make up for it. Where do the clouds and mountains begin?

Once on the ski slopes the rough edges are washed away by the surrounding mountains and impossibly long views. After a long day of fresh air and carving up the slopes slip back into town where taverns rock out to the eighties and Bulgarian pop. Don’t forget to swig back a couple of rakiya, the local alcohol like grappa in Italy. And if a local asks if you like it, shake your head from side to side. Nodding means “no” in Bulgaria and you would hate to start an international incident over a drunken misunderstanding.

Have you been to Bansko? Let us know what you thought and share your tips and local favorites.

By the numbers:

Ski Pass: Adults €25; €Children 12.5/ per day

Altitude of the resort – 990m

Highest Peak – 2,914m

Total length of slopes – 70km

Total number of lifts – 14

If you go

Getting there: The closest international airport is in Sofia, Bulgaria, 95 km away. It is about a three hour drive from Sofia. Be prepared for windy roads with a few bumps along the way.

Where to stay: There are a ton of options in Bansko. The most expensive hotel, the Kempinski Hotel located right on the slopes, will set you back €100 per person per night. Our swank hotel cost €60 per night including breakfast and dinner for the two of us. If you are staying longer rent an apartment for as little as €250 a week. To find a place you can start here.

When to go: The ski season runs from December through late May.

Bansko- Bargain Basement of Bulgarian Skiing is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Courtesy of www.cia.gov

I handed my passport to the Serbian police officer. He scowled, not from the encroaching cold, but because I was American and had Kosovo visa stamps. Thankfully, I also had a Serbian entry stamp so there was nothing he could do but waive me through. A few kilometers down a windy country road I reached the Kosovar border checkpoint.

Normally when you cross borders you only have to worry about a valid passport (don’t forget it needs to be good for at least 6 months), and your visa. With Kosovo and Serbia things get a bit more complicated. There is an ambiguous international legal rational for Kosovo; a battle in the Security Council between the US, Russia and China over sovereignty and self-determination; a unilateral declaration of Independence by the Kosovar Government (supported by 65 countries in the world, but not the UN); and the blanket denial of that independence by Serbia, which maintains parallel government functions in parts of Kosovo. By now you may be wondering if there is a border or not…there is…depending on who you ask.

Kosovo and Serbia are both great countries to visit and explore, but if you are planning to experience both on the same trip you need to plan carefully or you may find yourself stranded at the border. I live in Kosovo and recently crossed the boarder so here is what you need to know (at the time of publishing).

Visit Serbia first

Kosovo maintains a border station into Serbia, while Serbia maintains a police checkpoint a few kilometers later  to catch visa violators.  If you entered Kosovo first, received a Kosovar entry and exit stamp, and then try to enter Serbia you will be denied access. Good luck finding your way back to Pristina. Serbia considers Kosovo a part of Serbian territory and if you enter it without a Serbian entry visa you are technically without a valid visa. As a matter of principle, Serbian visa stamps are not available along the Kosovar/Serbian border as there are only police checkpoints to make sure you have one.

Courtesy of www.cia.gov

Visit Serbia first. Fly into Belgrade, explore the country and then move on to Kosovo where you can obtain an entry visa at the Kosovo border checkpoint. Just remember you won’t be able to return to Serbia the same way if you get a Kosovo entry stamp, so plan your flights carefully (e.g. fly into Belgrade and out from Pristina). Or you can ask the Kosovar boarder control not to stamp your passport…not technically legal but it works for a lot of people (including me just last week).

I’m in Kosovo now! What do I do?

Don’t panic, go to your nearest cafe (they’re everywhere) and have one of the best inexpensive machiatos anywhere in the world. Feeling better? Good. Now, all you need to do is plan your exit from Kosovo by either flight or overland through another country (there are no flights direct from Pristina to Belgrade but you can fly from Skopje, Macedonia). If you want to get back into Serbia overland your best bet is to cross into Macedonia and then into Serbia by bus, or a nine hour train ride form Skopje.

Don’t forget that Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro all border Kosovo, have recognized it and there are no problems with visas (assuming you are able to get visas on arrival per your nationality).

Does this seem overly complicated? Maybe, but with a bit of planning you can ensure a smooth trip (personally I like unexpected difficulties, they lead to better travel stories).

Have you crossed the border recently? Leave a comment and share your experiences.

Kosovar and Serbian Border Crossing: what you need to know is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Handing over our passports to the Italian NATO troops we waited in the crisp winter air to enter. The secluded canyon exuded peace and tranquility, at odds with the tank barriers, sandbag bunkers and matching barb wire. We weren’t crossing a boarder, or even trying to enter a military base. We were there to visit Visoki Decani Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site and probably the best preserved medieval church in the Balkans. Nestled in the embrace of western Kosovo’s Decan Canyon, surrounded by grapevines, chestnut trees and bucolic pastures the abbey is a lovely two hours drive from the capital Pristina.

Amazingly you see almost exactly what a visitor would have experienced seven centuries ago.

The grounds are immaculate and black robed monks crisscross the visitors path as they go about their daily routines.

The monks even produce a good tasting wine…red of course! Best served with prayers for peace and tolerance.

Behind a NATO checkpoint: Kosovo’s Visoki Decani Monastery is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Fifty US dollars doesn’t get you much these days, but in the Italian Dolomites it buys 650 miles of downhill trails, and 464 modern ski lifts leading to and from about 40 facilities and through eight charming mountain villages. All this and one of the most spectacular mountain settings in the world. Don’t trust me? Well, UNESCO agrees, and it was named a World Heritage Site in 2009.

Signs lead you the whole way

We started from the town of Corvara at 10 am, an easy and fun ski from San Cassiano

Right away the Dolomite signature peaks surround you

The crowds are swallowed up into the vastness of the area. Over three days of skiing we never waited to ride a ski lift. Yes, that is  a lot of runs and very sore legs.

Proof we were actually there and having a good time. Just in case you didn’t believe me!

Everything is gigantic in this beautifully desolate country, even the sun!

Three peaks. Can you find the mountain hut?

Moderate level skiers can enjoy the 4 passes, but you need to keep moving or you will run out of time. With the sun racing us to the bottom we were still in the middle of nowhere.

By 4:30 pm we arrived back to where we began. Expect the trip to take five-six hours, including a picturesque lunch along the way.

Tired but excited from our adventure we arrived back at our chalet, Ciasa Roby. With an attentive and knowledge staff, warm clean rooms and a friendly atmosphere I would recommend it anyone visiting the region.

Have you skied in the Dolomites? Do you have other recommendations for skiing in Europe? Post a comment and join the conversation.

If you go

When to go: Winter….

Seriously, you can expect good ski conditions from December-April.

Getting there:
The only way into the area is by car, bus or taxi.

The nearest airports are Treviso, Venice, Verona, and Innsbruck in Austria.
The main international airport is “Marco Polo” in Venice. Low cost flights arrive in Treviso. Search for flights here.

Bus transfers: Terravision from/to all the airports, until 12th April.
Warning: We booked the Terravision bus back to the airport, but it never showed up! The pickup points are larger towns outside of Alta Badia region and we were forced to take a cab back to Venice airport which cost $250!!! Turns out the company wrote an e-mail confirmation to me the day before which I didn’t see BECAUSE I WAS SKIING IN THE COUNTRYSIDE. Check your e-mail and confirm the ride before waiting in the freezing 3 am morning air.

Accommodation: There is a lot to choose from. You can get started by looking here.

Skiing the Four Passes in the Italian Dolomites is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

I faced my dive buddy for a final check as our boat approached the Renaissance city of Venice. Weight belt on, air open, B.C.D. working….we gave each other the final OK symbol, not the thumbs up of course. We weren’t amateurs, this wasn’t our first trip after all, we were ready. We even checked the news that morning before we left, which of course was our downfall. “Venice is underwater” the swanky Italian host informed us. “Dress appropriately,” he advised with a wink. I was taken in by his professional nature and shinny suit. 

We stepped off the water taxi, not onto the worn cobble stone streets of lore, but raised platforms sagging with tourists from far flung reaches of the globe. Underwater indeed! We were over dressed! Without the benefit of galoshes the fancier hotels supply, we were left to battle our way through the crowded back alleyways and along the cheap narrow walkways clashing with history. Luckily an unusual cold snap had also plunged the city into a snow bound mess, closing the airports and offering some respite from one of the world’s most visited destinations.

Piazza San Maro is the heart of historical Venice and the best place to start your vacation. Of course you need to find a way through the water first! No, that is not a canal. 

The paths are clearly marked…with frozen bodies.

If you can wait a few hours the water usually recedes and a full walking tour can begin. The beauty of Venice is in the winding alleys, the narrow canals and the towering ancient buildings offering a direct link to history…very little imagination required!

We began our tour at Basilica San Marco (St. Marks). A Byzantine masterpiece, it is the most famous church in Venice. With 149 competitors that is saying a lot. Completed in 1096 it is well worth a visit inside. The four famous horses on the outside, taken from Constantinople, are fakes. You need to enter…and pay…to see the real ones.

Of course you’ll find more than just horses inside.

The Doge Palace, the home of Venice rulers called the Doge, is another must visit. But beware, there is so much to process in this fascinating place you may leave thinking everything looks the same. Luckily the tour ends with stint in the old prison cells where you can find respite from the gorgeous paintings and intricate ceiling work. 

In the Doge Palace you will also cross the poetically inspired Bridge of Sighs, named for the prisoners headed towards execution and alas their predictable, if imagined, last breaths. It is one of the most photographed scenes in Venice , but I missed out as the city decided it was nicer to surround it in advertising. Maybe next time….or a swing by Google images.

The Grand Canal is the main artery of Venice. Three bridges hold the two sides together, Rialto Bridge being the most scenic. Shops line the bridge and the top is a great place to view the canal and the boats plowing their trade.

Escape the busy Grand Canal, and the crowding tourists, done any side alley. Getting lost is probably one of the best ways to spend your time. 

A church around every corner.

Gondolas out despite the cold. 

Church of St. Mary of the Friars in the distance. It was built as promise to God for ending a particularly bad spell of the plague. 

Huddling together 

If you go

When to go: Venice is busiest from the months June through September when the weather is warm. The famous Carnival is in February and like in the summer months the city gets crowded and the hotels full. If you are looking for less of an elbow to elbow experience the months of October through April are still generally fine with some mild days.

Getting there: The closets airport (4 miles away) is Marco Polo International Airport. Another option, especially for budget airlines is Venice Treviso Airport (16 miles away).

Venice occupies over 100 islands. The historic center is located 1 1/2 miles from the coast and can be reached by either car, bus, taxi or train via the Ponte della Libertá (“Bridge of Liberty”). You can also reach the area by water taxi, one runs directly from the airport.

Accommodation: Prices in Venice are more expensive then on the mainland as everything used must be delivered by barge and handcart (no cars in Venice!). For suggestions on cheap hotels in Venice try starting your search at EasyToBook.com.

An Underwater Tour of Venice, Italy is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

In November I stopped by imperially romantic Vienna, Austria for two days on my way to a consulting job in Sri Lanka. The holiday season was just starting and the city was awash in Christmas lights and markets selling spiced wine, dried meats and just about any type of cheese you could ask for.

I got lost immediately and enjoyed every minute of it. Every corner held a different feast for the eyes and I soon didn’t care where I was.

Four shy statues

Naschmarket, a curious blend of Viennese culture and oriental flavor. Dating back to the 16th century there are plenty of delicious delights to buy, or just sit at one of the many cafes and restaurants and soak in the atmosphere.

Spices

The Museum Quarter is a must see

A Christmas market.

Statue in front of the Austrian National Library in the Hofburg Palace

Fountain near the Spanish Riding School

Don’t smite me…smite the snakes…

There you go…

Christmas and shopping was not complete until first I walked down Mariahilfer Strasse, the cities main shopping street, and then down the pedestrian avenues leading to Stephansdom Cathedral.

Stephansdom (St. Stephen’s) Cathedral. Begun in 1359, it was not completed until the 20th Century. Even today constant renovations hide parts of the building. Luckily the city prints pictures of the building on the scaffolding so as not to disrupt the beauty too much. Can you spot the scaffolding in the picture above?

Inside the Cathedral

No matter where you look in Vienna…someone is watching you!

If you go

Bring a lot of money, Vienna is expensive. I stayed at the Radisson SAS Palais, on Stadtpark. The location was great, but not necessarily worth the price of $200/day. However, there are cheaper options in hostels which can be found here.

When to go: Vienna is generally mild and the weather reliably follows the four distinct seasons. Average summer temperatures range from 20°C to 30°C, the average winter temperatures are around 0°.

Getting there: The Vienna Airport has connections all over the world and can be accessed from just about anywhere. Trains run from the airport often and are the best way to get into the city. The two best choices are:

Vienna Walk About is a post from: Todd's Wanderings