Recently I took a mixed group of diplomats, aid workers and tourists on a hiking trip to Kosovo‘s most remote region, Dragash. Not only is the area the focus of my upcoming first guidebook (The Mountains of Dragash, Kosovo: Hiking and Nature Tourism Guide) but is now the area where I’m working for the United Nations to develop a rural tourism strategy for the Municipality.

How to Take Stunning Travel Photos With your Iphone

The trip and guidebook are secondary to my true secret, how I use the Iphone to take amazing photos. OK, OK, I think they are amazing anyway. While I’m also guilty of lugging around a proper camera, many of my most beautiful shots come from my easy to pocket Iphone.

I use a photographic technique (is it a technique if it is an app?) called High Dynamic Range (HDR) which takes photos at varying light levels and merges them together. The effects can be stunning and with a simple App called TrueHDR ($1.99) all the processing work is done for you. Of course you still need to frame, pick beautiful views, and keep a steady hand. Dragash, Kosovo really is this beautiful, but with a little help it’s possible to draw out the wild beauty of the area even further.

Enjoy the photo essay and leave your best travel photography tip in the comments below.

Our beautiful camp site at the base of a 2 river canyon system

 The hiking guide will be available soon, and for FREE! Check back soon for details.

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Dragash Kosovo Backcountry HDR Photo Trip is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

You can walk here in just 5 minutes from the village of Brod

Working for the United Nations and as a Travel Blogger/writer has its moments…sometimes they intersect in an amazing experience or opportunity that just leaves me wondering how I ever became so lucky. If anyone ever tells you a dream job does not exist, share this link with them and then get working on making it come true. In the run up to my new guide book release (The Mountains of Dragash, Kosovo: Hiking and Nature Tourism Guide) I led a group of 30 people into the Dragash back-country for a weekend of hiking, camping, and getting back to nature (ie getting very wet on the hike in and out). The trip was part of a larger effort to develop a nature tourism strategy for the isolated Municipality of Dragash, and to create a series of value chains to help locals benefit from increased tourism. The project is sponsored by the Finish Government, and is being implemented by the United Nations Development Programme.

Hiking in Dragash

If you don't want to carry all your gear you can hire horses in the village of Brod

We have been working on this hiking guide for about a year now and I have written about hiking in Dragash a number of times on Todd’s Wanderings as the work has progressed. Some of the hikes include:

Brod to Mount Cule

Brod to the Old Macedonian Smuggling Pass

Restelica to Brod

You will notice a pattern here as the picturesque village of Brod features heavily in my hikes. The beauty of this little village, tucked into a protective valley and wrapped lovingly in a series of crisp rivers, is undeniable. Add in the cultural traditions of the locals, numbering about 1,000, delicious cheese, succulent lamb and a dramatic landscape accessible just a few minutes from town and the tourism potential becomes clear.

Our little camp site in a very large valley

The hike below is the same one that we arranged for the 30 person weekend. The text is the same as you’ll find in the soon to be published hiking guide, due out in July 2011. The Guide contains 12 of my favorite hikes and 3 mountain biking trails around Dragash Municipality, along with tourism information, easy to follow maps and local knowledge. Oh, did I mention it will be free both Electronically and for a limited time in Print? Yeah, I know, pretty amazing.

If you are looking for a more serviced experience feel free to contact me and I’ll can pass along your message to a contact person in the village. We organized horses to pack up our tents, and for food to be prepared for dinner and breakfast the next morning. This is just the beginning of  mountain tourism in Dragash and we are hoping to lay the foundation for sustainability where locals benefit monetarily, the environment benefits from conservation and tourists have a unique amazing experience.

BROD to LAKE SHUTMAN/ŠUTMAN

This is one of the best known hikes in the Brod region with a well worn path, and stunning views through the Brod Gorge and into the southern rolling alpine fields where Lake Shutman/Šutman lies. The lake is more of a pond and is shallow with a muddy bottom but beautiful nonetheless. These small lakes are called mountain eyes due to the resemblance of human eyes when viewed from the mountains above. This hike can also be combined with 2 other hikes in the region, Mt. Vraca or the 3 Peaks hike, which begin and end at Lake Shutman/Šutman. The lake also provides a nice place to camp for those wanting to explore more of the southern area of Dragash/Dragaš.

A larger map will be available soon

STARTING POINT/ ENDING POINT: Arxhena Hotel or Old Road near Brod

STARTING ELEVATION: 1384 meters

HIGHEST ELEVATION: 2120 m.

DISTANCE: 8.82 Km.

DURATION: 6-7 hours round-trip along the same path

DIFFICULTY: Easy. There are very few steep parts to this hike.

Hiking Route Description

You have two options where to start. You can either start directly from Arxhena Hotel and climb up the steep ski slope behind the hotel which meets the path further on; or you can start from the beginning of the main path along the Old Road closer to Brod which is longer but has a more gentle climb up into the mountains. If starting from the Old Road, follow the main dirt road out of Brod towards Arxhena Hotel with the river on your right hand side.

After the last house between the hotel and the village, just past the rusted skeleton of an old car on its side under a tree, the river passes under the road. As the river moves to the left side of the road you will see a small concrete water-tap structure on the right and the power lines begin to diverge from the road. Turn right here and follow the grass road uphill following the wooden electrical poles. This is the start of the Old Road to Macedonia that was never completed. Eventually the grass route will turn to a dirt and rock path. Follow this further into the valley until you are directly above Arxhena Hotel. It is here that the ski slope intersects with the main path.

I love a nice mountain lake. These post glacial lakes are often called mountain eyes as they look like eyes looking up into the sky when seen from the mountain tops above.

Continue following the well-travelled path south into the river gorge. Make sure you stay high up on the path and do not descend to the river and cross it. There is a path on the other side of the river but it is more difficult and does not lead directly to the lake. More than two thirds of the way to the lake you will see a beautiful waterfall where the river rushes out of a narrow rocky gap. The top of the waterfall has a nice area to rest and have a picnic. You can access this area by leaving the path behind after the waterfall turning left, crossing the river at its highest point and then walking back to the waterfall. See the map for further indications, as there is no dedicated path to the waterfall from this side of the river.

After passing the waterfall you will come to a point where the path becomes narrow and less clear. This is also where you will see a shepherd’s building which doubles as a sharr dog breeding hut. Stay away from the building, as sharr dogs are very protective, even if they are cute when they are young. Stay closer to the mountain on your right and you will eventually make out the path that leads out of this valley and up into the valley with small but beautiful Lake Shutman/Šutman.

What do you think? Would you visit Kosovo and Brod?

Camping and Hiking in Kosovo’s Backcountry: Brod to Lake Shutman is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Video instructions on how to hike from Brod to the old Macedonian Smuggling Pass. This is an extra resource for those looking to hike this path and would like to see what it is like and where the map will take them. For a written explanation on how to reach the mountain pass, including a map click this link.

What do you think? I’d love to hear your comments on the video and the beautiful area of Brod, Dragash.

VIDEO: Hiking Dragash, Brod to the Old Macedonian Pass is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Amazing view of the Mountains in Macedonia just over the border.

Winter is approaching but there are still a few weeks left of crisp clear hiking air awaiting you in the mountains of Dragash. Located in the southern end of Kosovo, Dragash is an oasis of untouched natural beauty and traditional villages sandwiched between the borders of Macedonia and Albania. Ignored by the Yugoslav government, the area never received development money for tourism despite its wealth of flora, fauna and cultural traditions. Luckily, this also spared the region the communist era concrete hotels and restaurants that mar similar regions in Kosovo. To help spur sustainable eco-tourism to the region and highlight an untouched wonder in the Balkans I’m helping to write a hiking guide to the Dragash Region implemented by the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) and funded by the Finland government.

What better way to experience this traditional area than by hiking to the old pass to Tetovo, Macedonia. Not only can you walk the old smuggling paths trodden by horses burdened with heavy oil barrels during the sanctions placed on Yugoslavia, but the view into Macedonia with its dramatic mountains and sheer cliffs is unforgettable. The oil barrels from this period are still used to cover houses and storage areas in the region.

Oil barrels are used as walls and roofs on many of the old houses in Brod

This hike is harder and longer than the others I have posted (Restilica to Brod and  Brod to Mt. Cule) but worth every second. For those less ambitious the first part of the hike is easy, nestled in a gorgeous river valley and makes an easy 1 1/2 hour round trip hike.

Old Macedonian Pass

Click the map for a larger version. The trail is not marked so be sure to print out a copy of the map.

STARTING POINT: Brod, from the cemetery

ENDING POINT: Brod, the Mt. Cule hiking path

TIME- 7 hours (long hike); 1 1/2 hours (easy hike)

STARTING ELEVATION- 1,384 meters

HIGHEST ELEVATION- 2,265 meters

DIFFICULTY- Hard or Easy (it’s your choice!)

The path starts on the eastern edge of Brod. Enter the town from the Dragash road and turn left when the road ends. Follow the river up past the mosque until you reach the edge of town with the cemetery above to the left. Climb up the steep hill until you see the source of the river flowing out of the narrow gorge.

Follow the river and the gorge for about 40 minutes until you reach a large boulder towering over the river. From here climb up the hill to the right until you are above the boulder and you see a path that takes you to a flat area (perfect for camping) and a spring to fill water bottles further on. This is where the easy hike ends and the longer hike continues.

You guessed it. Climb up the right side of the valley just after this boulder.

The first part of the hike is green and lush

The end of the hike is quite the contrast.

Follow the path through the valley until it ends at a river. Cross the river and climb the mountain following a small goat path up to the left of a sharp peak and around it to the right and then up, up, up. Your goal is the top of the mountain so feel free to get there any way that makes sense. Once you reach the top, after a long and steep climb, you will see the top on your right. This is where you will see the old wagon tracks and the remnants of a stone rest house. Keep going up to the right until you reach a drop off and magnificent views of Macedonia where Mt. Tito pokes its sharp head into the sky (yup we climber Tito too!). From here you start your return to Brod by keeping  Macedonia on your left and the valley you hiked through on your right far, far below. Check back on soon for a video description of the whole hike as well as a video of hiking/camping tips for the Dragash region!

A shepherd and his flock at sunset

Make your way until your see the point of Mt Cule (see earlier hiking article) to your left and follow the contours of the path and mountain until you reach Cule. Be careful not to go down the steep mountain as it drops suddenly and is dangerous. Keep on the goat path with Cule on your right across a deep valley and it will bring you around the backside of Cule and eventually down to the normal shepherd paths that lead back to Brod. From Cule head down and cross a small river and you will see a clear path. Just head towards Brod at this point and you can’t go wrong. Remember part of the joy of hiking in Dragash is finding your own way, which is very easy as no trees obstruct your view.

If You Go

No trick photography here. It really is a beautiful place.

Driving from Pristina it takes about 2 1/2 hours to reach Brod by car. Drive to Prizren and follow the one way roads through the city taking a sharp left at the city center and following signs for Kukes and Dragash where you will take a right hand turn to leave the city. Continue on the road to Kukes for about 15 km until you come to an intersection with signs pointing left to Dragash. Turn left and follow this road into the valley for about 30 km until you come to the  town of Dragash itself. Continue through Dragash center following signs for Brod. The road after Dragash winds its way through the mountains for another 20 minutes until you come to Brod, the last town along the road.

If you have any questions about visiting Dragash just post a comment below. Or share your stories and tips for visiting this wonderful area of Kosovo.

If you do visit, please leave a comment below as I will be sharing your experiences with the Mayor and the communities to help encourage them and show them the value of their resources.

Hiking Dragash, Kosovo: Brod to the old Macedonian Smuggling Pass is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Beautiful canyon behind the village of Restelica where the path begins

Mountain shepherds, enormous Sharr Dogs, free roaming horses, pristine babbling streams and dramatic mountains are just a small taste of what awaits you in Dragash. Located in the southern end of Kosovo, Dragash is an oasis of untouched natural beauty and traditional villages sandwiched between the borders of Macedonia and Albania. Ignored by the Yugoslav government, the area never received development money for tourism despite its wealth of flora, fauna and cultural traditions. Luckily, this also spared the region the communist era concrete hotels and restaurants that mar similar regions in Kosovo. To help spur sustainable eco-tourism to the region and highlight an untouched wonder in the Balkans I’m helping to write a hiking guide to the Dragash Region funded by the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP). The last hike was a steep climb from Brod to Mt. Cule.

Easy Hike from Restelica to Brod (or the other way around)

Click the map for a larger version. The trail is not marked so be sure to print out a copy of the map.

STARTING POINT: Restelica (or Brod)

TIME- 2 ½ hours one way

STARTING ELEVATION- 1,492 meters

HIGHEST ELEVATION- 1,972 meters

DIFFICULTY- Medium

The villages of Brod and Restelica sit on opposite ends of a fork in the road that begins in the town of Dragash. Representing the southernmost villages at the end of their roads, and Kosovo, they are only about 10 km away from each other by the mountain trails but it takes more than an hour to reach the other village by car. Each village has its unique atmosphere and a hike through the mountain passes between the two is an easy way to explore both the surrounding nature and the character of the small villages dotting the Dragash region. Their isolation from each other has reportedly bred a healthy rivalry between the two villages. You will have to decide for yourself which town speaks closer to your own heart. No matter which you choose you are sure to fall in love with the surrounding mountains, sweeping grassy fields reminiscent of New Zealand, and a local population eager to host the rare visitor.

The village of Restelica

I would recommend starting your hike from Restelica as you start higher on this end and the pass is less steep to reach, allowing you to enjoy your hike down to Brod. This will also allow you to stay the night in Brod in the only hotel in the area, Arxhena. The hotel sits 3 km from the town of Brod on the way into the mountains. Their attempt to build an insanely steep ski hill has marred the surrounding beauty, but the staff is friendly and accommodating. Their lamb is delicious, fresh from the town of Brod, and don’t forget to try the salty Sharr cheese.

Starting from Restelica:

Enter the town until you reach a sharp left hand turn that switches back on itself. Follow this road up into the main part of town. Keep following the road until it turns right and leads you out of town to the South and then into a river valley (pictured at the beginning of the article). From here the walking path follows the river into the valley. After about 20 minutes you will come to a fork in the valley with a smaller river flowing into the larger from the left. Leave the path here and follow the smaller river up into the valley on the left. After about 100 meters a path will start on the left side of this river. Follow this up along the river to the pass that leads down to Brod. On the way up you’ll find a spring where you can refill your water bottles.

Meeting locals along the path.

Hotel near Brod and the insanely steep walk down to it. Careful its slippery.

Just before the top of the pass there is a Sheppard’s hut where a lot of Sharr dogs live. Give it a wide berth just to stay safe as Sharr dogs can be very territorial. Once over the pass follow the mountains down to the left. You’ll be able to see a rocky cliff in the distance, head toward this. You will hit the old road towards Macedonia. At this point you can either walk down the steep, eroded ski slope towards Hotel Arxhena if you are staying there, or continue to follow the old road north and it will eventually bring you gently down into the town of Brod.

Starting from Brod

Just follow the directions above in reverse. If you are starting from the Brod itself it is best to turn right across the river just outside of town to begin your climb along the old Macedonian road. If you start from the Hotel you are forced to hike up the ski hill, which is hot, dusty and very steep. Be careful not to follow the well worn path towards the glacial lake in the south. Instead once you are just above the hotel turn west and head up over the mountains were the path is smaller and made by sheep. Don’t worry too much about the path at this point, just get up and over the mountain pass and you will see where to go.

Don’t forget to look out for the wild goats that live in the cliffs above Arxhena hotel. They come out in the morning and later afternoon. A small restaurant called Ramce by the river (before you reach the Arxhena hotel coming from Brod) is a perfect place to relax and search for the goats. Ask the owner for this binoculars. They also serve great lamb so stop by on your way back from hiking. Just remember to call in advance and they need 1 hour to prepare the lamb properly (tel 029-285-119). They are only open in the summer but the scenery, cold beer, goat viewing and fresh meat can’t be beat.

Yes, this is when I was mobbed by sheep. They were more aggressive than the dogs on this hike!

If You Go

Early summer is the best time for the wild flowers and deep green grasses

Driving from Pristina it takes about 2 1/2 hours to reach Brod by car. Drive to Prizren and follow the one way roads through the city taking a sharp left at the city center and following signs for Kukes and Dragash where you will take a right hand turn to leave the city. Continue on the road to Kukes for about 15 km until you come to an intersection with signs pointing left to Dragash. Turn left and follow this road into the valley for about 30 km until you come to the  town of Dragash itself.

Going to Restelica: Just after entering Dragash and climbing the hill to the beginning of the town take your first right hand turn. Follow the road for about 40 minutes until you come to Restelica, the last town along the road.

Going to Brod:  Continue through Dragash center following signs for Brod. The road after Dragash winds its way through the mountains for another 20 minutes until you come to Brod, the last town along the road.

If you have any questions about visiting Dragash just post a comment below. Or share your stories and tips for visiting this wonderful area of Kosovo.

If you do visit, please leave a comment below as I will be sharing your experiences with the Mayor and the communities to help encourage them and show them the value of their resources.

Hiking Dragash, Kosovo: Restelica to Brod is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Thunder and lightening…no problem. No path, whatever. Once you see how beautiful Dragash, Kosovo is nothing will keep you away from the dramatic mountains and the fresh air. Here is a short introduction to the Dragash Hiking Guide, a project I’m working on to be the first to map out hiking routes in this remote area of southern Kosovo. Not a bad way to spend the weekend! More detailed Dragash, Kosovo Hikes will be up soon. As will the magic letters

What do you think? Would you visit Dragash, Kosovo?

On Top of Kosovo and Macedonia is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Mt. Cule. Just aim for the rocky peak and you can't get lost.

Mountain shepherds, enormous Sharri Dogs, free roaming horses, pristine babbling streams and dramatic mountains are just a small taste of what awaits you in Dragash.  “I’ve lived in Kosovo for 9 months and I had no idea there was anything this beautiful,” said a friend as we stood in the middle of a wind swept mountain pass barely an hours walk from the road.  Unfortunately, comments like this are all too common. This one was made by a woman who lived just a 30 minutes drive from where I led a small group on a hike through the sharp green Sharri Mountains in Dragash Municipality.

Located in the southern end of Kosovo, Dragash is an oasis of untouched natural beauty and traditional villages sandwiched between the borders of Macedonia and Albania. Ignored by the Yugoslav government, the area never received development money for tourism despite its wealth of flora, fauna and cultural traditions. Luckily, this  also spared the region the communist era concrete hotels and restaurants that mar similar regions in Kosovo. Unbelievably, over a decade after the NATO bombs ceased, the region is still relatively unknown as persistent rumors of crumbling roads and violent sharri dogs have conspired to keep the area isolated mentally if not physically.

I have spent the past few months hiking the mountains and valleys that make up Dragash and have fallen in love with the locals (populated mostly by the Gorani), the magical grass filled mountains and the traditional way of life. This is a region where cross border trade still takes place on the back of pack horses along old mountain trails. Dragash is easy to reach and accessible to all levels of hikers as the mountain trails are well worn from centuries of use. The difficulty is that there is hardly any information on where to hike, trail maps to plan your day, and markers to keep you on track.

To help remedy this I’m working with the municipality and the various towns to develop an Eco-tourism Guide to Dragash, funded and produced by the United Nation’s Development Program (UNDP). Not only will this great project enable me to keep doing what I love, hiking the mountains with only a GPS to guide the way and writing about it later, but hopefully it will increase the level of visitors to the region and improve the livelihood opportunities of the locals.

Sitting on top of Mt. Cule. Come and enjoy the view with me. Subscribe to my YouTube Channel.

To promote the area and help people get out hiking before the Guide is available I am hosting a portion of my hikes here on Todd’s Wanderings. As a special treat you now get to see me live in action as I have also started documenting the hikes by video.  Most hikes will come with video compilations that show the route with exciting commentary (when the winds aren’t acting up and you can hear me). Check out my first post above from the top of Mt. Cule to see what I mean about the absolute beauty of the area.

If you want to follow in my footsteps this hike is steep but easy enough.

Mt. Cule Hiking Details

Click the picture to see a larger map. Ignore the bottom red line as we wandered over to see horses. You can also follow the red path to the end if you want to peek over into Macedonia (definitly worth the view!).

STARTING POINT: The Town of Brod

DURATION: 4 hours round trip

ALTITUDE: Brod-1384 meters; Mt. Cule-2220 meters

DIFFICULTY: Steep, but you can go as slow as you want There is nothing technically difficult about this hike other than the steepness.

The path starts from the southern edge of the town, across the river and up the hill from the community center. The town is not very big so just ask anyone in town for Cule (pronounced “Chule”) and they should be able to point you in the right direction. You will find a lot of shepherds trails but follow the main ones up the mountain and towards the rock peak to the southeast (that’s Cule!). There are no markers here so print out the map and follow it the best you can. The good news is that there are no trees and it is easy to navigate by sight alone.

After about an hour of steep hiking you will come to a stream. Cross it and follow it up the mountain. You will see Cule up on your left.

Yes, it’s that easy! Water, food, snacks can all be bought in Brod or the town of Dragash. Don’t forget to buy sharri cheese as it is a local delicacy, just watch out as it is very salty.

A word of Caution about Sharri Dogs (Illyrian Shepherd)

Luckily I yelled “hello” as I approached the hut. About 9 dogs jumped up, hidden from view initially by the tall grass.

These beautiful dogs are only found in this area of the world. They are large and are VERY protective of the sheep they guard. It is their job after all. If you come across a flock of sheep or a shepherd’s hut, most likely there will also be Sharri Dogs around. A local shepherd gave me this advice:

Don’t worry too much about the dogs. They hardly ever bite humans, but you should keep your distance as they are protective of the sheep and their territory. When you are passing by just give them enough distance. They will bark, but don’t be afraid. Sharri Dogs are the best!

I’ve followed this advice and have not had any problems to date. Although I have had plenty of the dogs bark at me to their hearts content.

If You Go

Driving from Pristina it takes about 2 1/2 hours to reach Brod by car. Drive to Prizren and follow the one way roads through the city taking a sharp left at the city center and following signs for Kukes and Dragash where you will take a right hand turn to leave the city. Continue on the road to Kukes for about 15 km until you come to an intersection with signs pointing left to Dragash. Turn left and follow this road into the valley for about 30 km until you come to the  town of Dragash itself. Continue through Dragash center following signs for Brod. The road after Dragash winds its way through the mountains for another 20 minutes until you come to Brod, the last town along the road.

If you have any questions about visiting Dragash just post a comment below. Or share your stories and tips for visiting this wonderful area of Kosovo.or just say hello, I love hearing what people think.

Hiking Dragash, Kosovo: Brod to Mount Cule is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

The road ends at the small Kosovar village of Letnica on the border with Macedonia. The white church of the Black Madonna watches over the town from a small hill. The large church only magnifies the empty feeling of the town where only about 100 people are left. Dirt roads snake into the town in between dilapidated stone houses. Despite the abandoned air the town is surrounded by forested rolling hills, giving the area a peaceful feel. The twittering of songbirds floated through the air as we climbed the small hill to the church.

The faithful before the Black Madonna

If the town was ever to have a crowd we found it as four men sat outside the church socializing and taking in the surrounding views. A middle aged man reeking of raki (the Kosovar equivalent to Italian grappa) shadowed us the whole way, pleading for money and trying to be best friends the way only drunk people can. Inside the church worshipers knelt below the 300 year old Black Madonna statue, made from blackened wood, praying for a child. Christian and Muslim couples alike venerate it and believe it can help childless families. On 14-15 August the town is beset by the faithful as more than 30,000 worshipers arrive to take part in the two day festival of the Assumption. Mass is held in multiple languages and the Madonna is paraded through the streets in between the thousands of newly pitched tents.

The miller weighing this corn flour

The town has an authentic charm that is not easily found anymore in Kosovo as residents rush to Prishtina or abroad in search of work. The money they earn is usually used to destroy old stone houses and replace them with incomplete exposed brick structures. Below the church along a small river sits a traditional mill owned by Froke Dokic, an older Croat miller. The water powered stone mill ground the corn he fed by hand into fine flour. There was nothing modern about the building and I couldn’t even find a light bulb ensuring a work day that started with first light and ended with dusk. Everything in the old mill was covered in fine corn dust, from an old typewriter, to traditional clothing, to a coke bottle used to hold candles, and even to old Froke himself. The miller is a solid man, not given to speaking much but friendly enough and quick to let you in to see the old mill at work. We placed an order of 5 kg of flour before we set off into the country side for a hike.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbLTYnHvZw

These beautiful houses were abandoned and left to crumble

It’s easy to leave the town and reach the surrounding hills. After just ten minutes we had left the town behind. Grazing sheep roamed the hills in the distance, and a pack of horses ate their fill right next to us as we took a short break near a natural spring gushing from the ground. A view of the church opened up before us below, revealing the rows of the pilgrim huts sheltered amongst its walls. As we wound our way higher into the hills we passed through a beautiful old village, filled with traditional stone houses and ottoman style windows and eaves. The heavy stone houses magnified the feeling of loneliness as we realized the town was deserted. Only one elderly woman was left, kept company by her sheep and goats. Supposedly the rest had left during the 1991 Croat war for independence, pushed by Serb hardliners to settle in abandoned Serb houses in Slovenia.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLf_5Qmy9ck

Excited to see what's over the hill

No one seems to want to farm these days and the land around us lay fallow, satisfying only the hungry bellies of the grazing sheep and horses. Well worn but unmarked trails disappeared into the forests and most likely into neighboring Macedonia. Like most of Kosovo, Letnica requires a bit of work to discover. It’s not a place built for tourists, but you are rewarded for your adventurous spirit through the pleasure of new discoveries down each unmarked path or over the next bucolic hill.  It’s a wonderfully peaceful place just one hour from Prishtina, perfect for a day hike and a picnic. On our way out of the village we stopped by the old mill to pick up our natural flour and thank Froke for the trouble. He didn’t say a word, just turned back to his mill and continued feeding it corn.

Getting There

Statue of Mary and the Kosovo countryside behind her

If you have a car read on…if you don’t have a car, go rent one or find a friend with one and then read on. Ok, ok, it’s possible to catch a bus to Ferizaj or Gjilan and then transfer to a local bus to Viti and then rent a taxi to take you the final distance to Letnica (don’t forget to arrange a pick up time or get the taxi’s phone number for your return trip).

If you took my earlier advice and you found a car, take the Pristina-Skopje highway heading south for about 35 km and follow signs to Viti. Once in Viti things get a bit more complicated. Drive around the main square and cross the river at the Steta Petka church, turn right around the secondary school and follow the road to the village of Verbovc. Once there bear right and follow the road to Letnica. Yes, you will get lost a few times so ask directions often.

Hiking in Letnica, Kosovo: A Black Madonna, abandoned villages and the old Croat miller is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Courtesy of www.cia.gov

I handed my passport to the Serbian police officer. He scowled, not from the encroaching cold, but because I was American and had Kosovo visa stamps. Thankfully, I also had a Serbian entry stamp so there was nothing he could do but waive me through. A few kilometers down a windy country road I reached the Kosovar border checkpoint.

Normally when you cross borders you only have to worry about a valid passport (don’t forget it needs to be good for at least 6 months), and your visa. With Kosovo and Serbia things get a bit more complicated. There is an ambiguous international legal rational for Kosovo; a battle in the Security Council between the US, Russia and China over sovereignty and self-determination; a unilateral declaration of Independence by the Kosovar Government (supported by 65 countries in the world, but not the UN); and the blanket denial of that independence by Serbia, which maintains parallel government functions in parts of Kosovo. By now you may be wondering if there is a border or not…there is…depending on who you ask.

Kosovo and Serbia are both great countries to visit and explore, but if you are planning to experience both on the same trip you need to plan carefully or you may find yourself stranded at the border. I live in Kosovo and recently crossed the boarder so here is what you need to know (at the time of publishing).

Visit Serbia first

Kosovo maintains a border station into Serbia, while Serbia maintains a police checkpoint a few kilometers later  to catch visa violators.  If you entered Kosovo first, received a Kosovar entry and exit stamp, and then try to enter Serbia you will be denied access. Good luck finding your way back to Pristina. Serbia considers Kosovo a part of Serbian territory and if you enter it without a Serbian entry visa you are technically without a valid visa. As a matter of principle, Serbian visa stamps are not available along the Kosovar/Serbian border as there are only police checkpoints to make sure you have one.

Courtesy of www.cia.gov

Visit Serbia first. Fly into Belgrade, explore the country and then move on to Kosovo where you can obtain an entry visa at the Kosovo border checkpoint. Just remember you won’t be able to return to Serbia the same way if you get a Kosovo entry stamp, so plan your flights carefully (e.g. fly into Belgrade and out from Pristina). Or you can ask the Kosovar boarder control not to stamp your passport…not technically legal but it works for a lot of people (including me just last week).

I’m in Kosovo now! What do I do?

Don’t panic, go to your nearest cafe (they’re everywhere) and have one of the best inexpensive machiatos anywhere in the world. Feeling better? Good. Now, all you need to do is plan your exit from Kosovo by either flight or overland through another country (there are no flights direct from Pristina to Belgrade but you can fly from Skopje, Macedonia). If you want to get back into Serbia overland your best bet is to cross into Macedonia and then into Serbia by bus, or a nine hour train ride form Skopje.

Don’t forget that Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro all border Kosovo, have recognized it and there are no problems with visas (assuming you are able to get visas on arrival per your nationality).

Does this seem overly complicated? Maybe, but with a bit of planning you can ensure a smooth trip (personally I like unexpected difficulties, they lead to better travel stories).

Have you crossed the border recently? Leave a comment and share your experiences.

Kosovar and Serbian Border Crossing: what you need to know is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Handing over our passports to the Italian NATO troops we waited in the crisp winter air to enter. The secluded canyon exuded peace and tranquility, at odds with the tank barriers, sandbag bunkers and matching barb wire. We weren’t crossing a boarder, or even trying to enter a military base. We were there to visit Visoki Decani Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site and probably the best preserved medieval church in the Balkans. Nestled in the embrace of western Kosovo’s Decan Canyon, surrounded by grapevines, chestnut trees and bucolic pastures the abbey is a lovely two hours drive from the capital Pristina.

Amazingly you see almost exactly what a visitor would have experienced seven centuries ago.

The grounds are immaculate and black robed monks crisscross the visitors path as they go about their daily routines.

The monks even produce a good tasting wine…red of course! Best served with prayers for peace and tolerance.

Behind a NATO checkpoint: Kosovo’s Visoki Decani Monastery is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

In October I moved from Sri Lanka to Kosovo. Coming from Colombo the streets of Pristina, the capital city, seemed orderly and quaint. The city is a mix of historical Ottoman era mosques, drab communist housing, and new buildings catering to the ever present contingent of international development workers. There is a fantastic cafe scene and a variety of international restaurants that I have not found in other developing countries. A major downside to the city is the pollution due to, a dinosaur of an electrical plant spewing cheap coal fumes over the city and the use of the cheap coal in family stoves to stay warm.

The trail is not marked but is easy to find. Just head towards the canyon in the distance. If in doubt there is bound to be illegal loggers in the area…just ask them. We parked our car next to two guys in full camouflage with two way radios. Presumably they were on the lookout for police.

A thin path winds it way through a field before rejoining the Mirusha River.

Not quite a full river, but it gets bigger closer to the falls.

The track is quite muddy so bring good shoes.

The canyon opens up to the first of a series of 12 falls that stretch into the canyon over 32 kilometers.

A slippery path leads up the canyon wall to the next water fall. From there the climbing gets harder and some technical experience is needed to explore the full canyon. Caves also dot the area and are easy to explore with a local guide.

If you go

Getting there:

Mirusha Falls, Kosovo is a post from: Todd's Wanderings