Travel Politics

Mother Teresa Street in Prishtina, Kosovo

Almost everything in Kosovo boils down to politics, and this is true for soccer (yes I’m American) as well. Kosovo is not in the World Cup, which is to be expected from a country that is only recognized by 65 nations and who is in a diplomatic stalemate with Serbia-which is in the World Cup- over its independence. With the majority 90% Kosovar-Albanian supporting independence Serbia is not likely to win too many World Cup supporters except for those from the Serbian enclaves. So the question which country garners the most support? Make no mistake, just because they don’t have a national team in the tournament, it has not dampened the excitement in Prishtina as a hundred cafes, bars and betting halls play each match to crowds of supporters.

Typical wares on Mother Teresa Street

To help answer my question, I decided to enlist the support of consumerism. I spent the day crisscrossing the winding streets of Kosovo’s hilly capital city in search of an American (for me) and a Japanese (for my wife) national jersey from the array of street venders selling pirated goods. I started off my day feeling optimistic, thinking an American jersey would be easy to come by. Kosovo has a love affair with the US that goes back to the NATO bombings in 1999. You can hardly walk 100 meters without coming across a US flag or assorted paraphernalia. If you are unlucky you’ll even pass the grossly ill-proportioned golden statue of Bill Clinton greeting visitors as they enter Prishtina on Bill Clinton Avenue.

I started off my search on Mother Teresa, a pedestrian walkway in the middle of town where street hawkers sell everything form knockoff Gucci belts to yapping Chinese electronic dogs performing back flips. As I walked under a banner of soccer balls and assorted national flags I assumed my search would be concluded early…leaving the rest of the day free to drink beer and cheer the second day of the tournament with the rest of the city in an outdoor cafe.

Reality was in fact quite different. I left the center of town disappointed and worried about my prospects. The closest I came to an American jersey came during this discussion.

Me: “Do you have an American Jersey?”

Seller: “I LOVE America! I lived in Arizona before.”

Me: “Great, so you have a jersey.”

Seller: “No, but I have an Argentina Jersey.”

Me: “Actually, that’s a Cameroon Jersey.”

Seller: “Yes, I love America. 13 Euro please.”

Street vendor in Kosovo

It was time to try a new tactic, so I headed to the outskirts of town to a large department store next to the K-FOR military base. K-FOR is the international military presence in Kosovo helping to keep the peace. With a large contingent from the US, as well as from all over Europe, it was my last great hope. I arrived at the four story complex catering to the nearby military personnel. You can buy anything you can think of there (all properly pirated and made in China), including a full outfit of North Face gortex clothing, fake Iphones, and DVDs for 1.5 Euro each. What they didn’t have was an American Jersey. By this point I would have settled for a North Korean jersey, but they didn’t have those either.

By the end of the day I resigned myself to supporting the US without proper clothing. I could have bought a full Celtics basketball uniform if I wanted but it seemed a bit off the mark (even though the Celts are in the NBA playoffs right now!). During my day of anthropological research I found the following teams: Brazil, Argentina, Cameroon (2nd most random), England, Italy, Portugal, Germany, Netherlands, and Israel (most random).

If you are still with me…are you?…you may be wondering what this all means. What I learned was that American flags, gratefulness for the military intervention and knockoff American clothing brands are one thing, football is another. Kosovars are happy to support any of the favored teams, particularly if they are European. However, the political and cultural support that America enjoys in Kosovo only goes so far and there is still a lot of work to be done before we see American Soccer supporters lining up to buy fake uniforms. With a tie to England in their first match, the US took one positive step towards earing some respect. It will need to take many many more before people are willing to shell out 13 Euro to support the US over Cameroon.

Sitting outside on the patio of a small Kosovo cafe, a beer held at the ready to celebrate the end to another perfect day, we were suddenly descended on by six scruffy small children. Pitiful eyes pleaded with us for money as they spread out amongst our group begging. We ignored them in turn and somehow they managed to look even more desperate.

I know, it sounds horrible and trust me it feels horrible. I have been traveling a long time and the scene is the same in most developing countries I visit. The orphans in Hanoi reciting their memorized English phrases, the legless beggars in Cambodia, the woman with her newborn child hanging limply from her breast as she begs amongst stopped traffic in Sri Lanka.

We weren’t a group of normal travelers, instead we were all seasoned development workers, used to working in harsh environments with marginalized and desperate people. We all wanted to help others, so why didn’t we give the children money? Why do I pass by the beggar on the street without looking into his eyes, at least acknowledging that he exists?

Of all the things I’ve learned from traveling, all the ways that I have grown as a person from my experiences around the world, this is the thing I hate most about who I’ve become. I hate how automatic it is to pass by someone who’s begging. It comes from the fear of being taken advantage of, of being hassled and having my “precious” time wasted, of supporting a lifestyle that I know is unhealthy.

There is a long list of rationalizations I can recite to help assuaged my guilt. The children should be in school, they aren’t acting on their own and are often being used by criminal networks. Even when they are not controlled by criminals there’s always some adult exploiting them for his/her own profit. Money to the children will not really help their situation and will just reinforce bad habits. Adult beggars usually have places they can go for food and support, and are usually found in the tourist areas of developing countries based on a market calculation. Don’t even get me started on the adults who use their children to plead their case, they upset me more than anyone.

But the feeling of guilt never goes away as I ignore the children or walk by the adults. I am glad it’s still there, and I hope I never become callouses enough for it to disappear. There are also times when everyone needs help. Not everyone is trying to rip you off, and some people genuinely need a hand extended in their direction. Thus the traveler’s dilemma becomes not one of to give or not to give, but how to give and to whom.

Everyone needs to decide for themselves how they feel about this. Some give money because it’s easier than dealing with their feelings of guilt. I would recommend staying in the area for some time to see who is truly needy, how the locals react to giving money and how much they offer. I don’t subscribe to the idea of giving pencils and books to kids as a local school would be able to manage the resources better. Try to seek out a local charity and support them, they will have a better idea of what will help most. Food is also a good gauge of people’s intentions. I often find people reject food as they want money, which usually means its going to someone else.

Following the above advice, I do tend to give away change if I have it in my pocket, the person asking is an adult and does not have a child with them. I need to feel humane too I guess, but I do have my lines. I would suggest you find your lines before you travel, it makes the inevitable heartbreak a little bit easier to bear.

Do you give money? What are you feelings about beggars? There’s no right or wrong answer so leave you thoughts below.

Of course the prision can't help but look nice from the outside in a tropical country

When I decided to take my own advice and re-visit Timor-Leste, I didn’t expect to find myself in a dark suffocating prison. Travel is not just about beaches, bars and mountain tops; its also about learning the history of the country and its people. I am sure the 13 odd government employees I brought with me to learn about post-conflict land administration and conflict management were hoping for the former. I can’t name where the officials are from as elements of their own government might not be happy we discussed ethnic reconciliation. If you know me well, I am sure you can guess.

The Indonesian era prison is actually home to a permanent exhibit on the Reconciliation process that occurred in Timor after independence, called the Commission for Reception, Truth and Reconciliation (CAVR). It is tricky business getting people together to admit to crimes they committed against their neighbors, but it’s an exercise that’s vital to forgiving and moving on to a more peaceful society. With war raging in Afghanistan, and post-war countries like Iraq trying to move on, examples like the process in Timor are a great way for travelers to gain a greater appreciation for the difficulties so many countries face around the world.

The family greets you as you enter the mildew soaked buildings

If you are planning a trip to Timor-Leste I recommend a visit to the exhibition, but if you can’t get away just yet here is short tour from my visit.

Community meetings and reconciliation

The CAVR was asked to investigate less serious crimes and bring victims and persecutors together to reconcile. Most people wanted reconciliation, but also rehabilitation for victims, engagement with refugees, and grassroots reconciliation based on both traditional methods and involving the Church.

About 1,371 reconciliations were facilitated by CAVR between perpetrators and victims of less serious crimes.

Before the (CRP) I felt ashamed to walk around the village. Now when I walk around, I feel freer. People didn’t talk to me sometimes before. Now I feel that people are more open. Before I felt a weight on me when I went to work in the fields.

As you walk though the prison various rooms are set up with displays showing the history of not only the CAVR but also a history of Timor-Leste’s struggle for independence from Indonesia.

Presentation by one of the members of the CAVR and director of the exhibit

Description of the Isolation Cell

As you move through the exhibit it is impossible not to be moved by the pain and suffering experienced by the Timorese people. And yet amid all of this suffering there is a message of hope, justice and peace. Nothing can become so bad as to be beyond redemption as there is also an equal ability of forgiveness by human beings.

Of course this does not make it any easier and some of the images are graphic and disturbing. Such as the one below (scroll fast if you do not want to see).

Inside the prison cells

At the end of the tour you are brought to a small garden to discuss what you have seen, share your feelings and work through what is at once a shame for human beings but also a model of triumph and forgiveness. As the humid breeze brushes your hair, the palm trees groan under the weight of gigantic coconuts, and the twittering of birds fill your ears you are reminded that nature has a capacity to revert to its original self, as do we humans after tragedy has stuck. The final message the tour has for you is not one of the past, but of the present. On the wall leading out is a question, scrolled in illuminating moss and algae: “What will you do for human rights now?”

Its a good question. Hopefully more travelers take it to heart and leave something positive wherever they go.

The CAVR exhibition is open to the public each working day on Balide Rd in Dili. Tour guides are available in English and Tetun. Bookings and further information are available at: tel 3310315, email chegatours@gmail.com

Have a strong feeling about the CARV? What do you think about a traveler’s responsibilities? Leave a comment below.

World Cup in Kosovo: politics and football

Should you give money to beggars when you travel?

Reconciliation and Human Rights in Timor-Leste (East Timor): more to travel than just beaches and beer

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