Blending of Cultures

Is travel an inherently selfish indulgence or a vehicle to bring about world peace? The travel and tourism industry is huge, and in 2010 over 940 million people traveled outside their own country as tourists and generated $919 billion dollars in global revenue.

That is a lot opportunity for both mischief and genuine interaction. So the question comes back to: is the opening of borders leading to greater understanding or a hardening of stereotypes?

I’ve been on the road for the past 12 years, both teaching children and working in international development. I’ve been a traveler, a tourist, an expat, and an undocumented worker (yup). In all this time I’ve become convinced of the power that travel has on people, both good and bad.

The Bad in Travel

Yes, let’s get this out of the way. Bad things happen when bad people travel. But, then again, bad things happen when bad people stay at home too. I’ve seen women exploited for sex by humanitarian workers, international police, and drunk college kids.

I’ve seen kids trafficked and begging on the streets, usually by internationals who only care about money.

I’ve seen rude Americans, drunk Brits, demeaning Australians, paranoid Japanese, and threatening Indians. I’ve seen poor people yelled at in restaurants because a cook messed up. I’ve seen people yell at taxi drivers who don’t understand their language. I see people trying desperately to make another country just like their own. Usually they get angry when the other side doesn’t understand they are “doing things wrong.”

These are all shades of the negative side of travel, but also the human condition. Are you depressed yet?

The Good in Travel

Despite seeing all the lousy things that humans do to each other I still feel that travel is making a positive impact on the world. Anyone who travels finds their belief system and world view challenged almost immediately. When you see desperate, stupid poverty (the kind where kids die from lack of food) there is nothing that you can do but help. Or at least start to appreciate everything you have and begin to share it.

Travel is experiential education. You learn by doing. Sometimes you make mistakes, and when you are away from your support system those mistakes tend to have bigger consequences. This can lead to more responsible actions, an opened mind, and tolerance.

One of the worst diseases spreading through our modern world is a lack of tolerance. Partisan bickering, sensationalism in the news, and the desire to gain political points through an “Us” vs “Them” mentality. All this does is lead to isolationism and a lack of tolerance in views, thoughts and expressions.

Travel can be the cure to intolerance. Bad people may travel. Stupid people may travel. But each time they do my bet is they are forced to think a little bit harder than if they stayed home.

How to Save the World

I have been involved in a lot international development projects, in peacebuilding initiatives, employment generation, women’s empowerment, etc etc. But all the things that have made a difference in my life have come from two simple things given freely by a few extraordinary people in my life:

Time

Kindness

Saving the world can be a daunting undertaking. But I guarantee that if each of those 940 million annual travelers show kindness and gave some time to the people around them, the world would be a better place. Just be kind to the person next to you. It really is that simple.

I heard the internet pioneer Chris Brogan say recently (paraphrased):

We are living through a revolution. When the revolution is over what will you have accomplished? Now is not the time to try to earn $$ on cheap tricks and scams but to build something lasting, transformational and that makes an impact.

I think his statement holds true just as much for the breaking down of borders through the internet as it does the liberalization of travel.

Can travel make the world a better place? Share your thoughts below.

Can Travel Make the World a Better Place? is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

We watched the horror unfold live on the television after the quake

This page is dedicated to helping the survivors of the Friday 11 March 2011 earthquake and tsunami in Japan by channeling international donations to local efforts.

The earthquake and tsunami have caused extensive and severe damage in Northeastern Japan, over 9,500 people have been confirmed dead and another 16,000 are missing, and millions more affected by lack of electricity, water and transportation.

The images of the destruction and suffering have shocked the world. However, with the World Bank reporting over 300 billion USD in damages and families torn apart there is a need for everyone to help both financially and emotionally.

A few weeks ago I posted about my Experience During the Japan Earthquake and made a plea to my readers to spread the word about helping Japan recover. My wife is from Tokyo and we are both professional aid and recovery workers with the United Nations. We have seen the recovery phase of the 2004 Tsunami up close and we know there is a tremendous need to not only raise donations but to make sure those funds are used responsibly and are in the hands of organizations with not only technical expertise but also local knowledge.

How You Can Help

A lot of people around the world want to help and have been donating to various international organizations (mainly the American Red Cross). I think this is great and with the money being transferred to the Japanese Red Cross this money will be used well. However, we also believe there is a need to donate funds directly to local Japanese organizations and NGOs that don’t have access to this type of fund raising. There are also many scams out there trying to benefit from this horrible disaster. We know that language barriers and lack of knowledge can also prevent people from donating to the right place. As such we have put together a list of Japanese Organizations that we know, trust and recommend to channel your donations to.

If you are unable to donate we ask that you Share this Page with your friends, family and coworkers through e-mail, facebook, twitter or any other outlet you can think of. The more people who see this page the greater the donations will be.

If you are blogger, or have your own website. Please see the Blog4Japan page to learn how you can utilize this appeal on your own site and help us reach even more people.

Japanese Organizations We Trust

Please consider donating to one or more of these organizations. All are local Japanese organizations and we have found the English Pages for you. Even a small amount like $10 is useful, but we hope you donate more!

Peace Winds Japan is one of the largest Japanese organizations providing humanitarian relief such as food, clothing, fuel and medical supplies to the affected areas. You can Donate Here.

JEN is a well known NGO dedicated to restoring a self-supporting livelihood both economically and mentally to those who have been stricken with hardship due to conflicts and disasters. They are currently supporting emergency relief items such as food, woman’s hygienic items, clothes and other essentials to the survivors of the Japan Tsunami. You can Donate Here.

Save the Children has been working in Japan for over 25 years. Their American partner is now collecting donations for them in English (which eliminates any credit card exchange charges. They have set up multiple child-friendly spaces  in evacuation centers in Sendai City where displaced families are staying. They are also starting their  long-term recovery plans to restore education and child care in communities ravaged by the disasters. You can get information on activities and Donate Here.

Adventist Development and Relief Agency (ADRA) is donating food and essential items to the survivors of the tsunami. They also keep a well maintained English blog of their activities in Japan for the tsunami which you can Follow Here. You can Donate Here.

The Japan Organization for International Cooperation in Family Planning is taking donations for their response to the tsunami that will focus on the reproductive health needs of women and mothers in affected areas. You can Donate Here.

The Association of Medical Doctors of Asia (AMDA Japan) team is delivering essential medical services through mobile clinics and delivering relief goods to the nursing homes and schools (evacuation shelters) in Aoba and Miyagino Wards. You can Donate Here.

OXFAM Japan is working with two partners in Japan on providing support to those on the margins of society who might otherwise have difficulty accessing emergency relief. One group is assisting mothers and babies and the other is providing information to non-Japanese speakers living in Japan. You can Donate Here.

Habitat For Humanity Japan is still assessing the situation but will be involved in the reconstruction of housing once the emergency period ends. This is one of the most vital aspects of recovery and the homeless will need a lot of help to put their lives back together. You can Donate Here.

The Institute for Cultural Affairs Japan (ICA) is still assessing the situation but is accepting donations. You can Donate Here.

All of these are worthy organizations to support and  you can match your own personal interests to the organization that you think will work the best on what you want to support. Even if you are unable to donate please pass this on through social media, word of mouth or even in print. I have waived all rights to this post so please feel free to copy and reproduce any part of it for the good of the Japanese people.

If you do want to reproduce this please see the Blog4Japan page where you can find out more details.

Thank you from my family and friends who have been affected by this terrible disaster.

How to Help Japan’s Earthquake and Tsunami Survivors by giving to Japanese Organizations is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Are bribes necessary sometimes?

If you travel long enough eventually you face the dilemma of how and when, or even if to bribe. But before we get into the nitty gritty of corruption I want to state right off the bat that corruption, the giving and taking of bribes, is an insidious practice that destroys the very fabric of the rule of law in countries and the trust between citizens and those elected to positions of authority.

Now that I’ve sounded off on my public service announcement let’s have a discussion about the realities of travel in potentially unsafe areas, in countries where the rule of law is loosely followed, and situations where it is in your interest to hand over $20, not because it doesn’t do any harm (it does) but because that $20 could save your skin.

Shake Down by Local Cops

The year was 2008 and I was traveling through Indonesia with my best friend. We were on the Island of Lombok after spending the past 4 days on the Gili Islands, paradise on earth, and beyond the reach of local law enforcement. I was living in Timor Leste during a time a lawlessness and my perceptions on danger was skewed…enough said. We were flying down the Lombok coast in our rented Jimmny on our way to a hidden reef. Twenty kilometers over the speed limit and suddenly we were caught in a police trap. A motorcycle cop waved us over and with his cheap Tom Cruise aviator sunglasses, leaned in and said, “Drivers license and papers.”

I handed him my American drivers license. It was all I needed to show to the rental company. OK, “company,” might be going to far. It was all the random guy on the street asked for when I handed him my money.

“No, give me your International Drivers License.” Shit.

“I don’t have one. But the license you’re holding is international.” He didn’t look happy, he put the license in his pocket and told us to follow him. He sped off at double the speed I had originally been caught for. Five minutes later we reached a small converted bus stop where the chief of police was hanging out with 7 other officers. It was converted into the local shake down station. The cop explained the matter to his boss, stepped aside and the chief, with a big belly and even bigger aviator sunglasses waved us in.

The Negotiation

We sat, the chief sat, the other 8 cops stood close to use, surrounding us, compressing us. “You broke the law. You need an international drivers license to drive in Indonesia.” I tried to explain that I thought my license was OK as the rental company only asked for that. It didn’t work.

“We will need your passports and then you can see a judge after the weekend to pay your fine. ” We didn’t have 2 days to wait, as our flight was leaving soon. He had us. Shit.

We talked back and forth for a little while until we came to that point. The point of silence where someone was expected to say something. We both knew what that something was…the bribe. I had never offered a bribe before, but as a negotiation specialist I knew exactly what was happening. I was not going to offer him money, that could very quickly go down a very dark and dangerous path.

“So, is there any way to settle this without having to wait until Monday?” I put the burden on him.

“Well, if you trust me I’m sure we could work it out for you. You could pay me the fine and I’ll appear in court for you. Twenty dollars.”

The truth is that I had no choice. I broke the law (maybe, I had no idea what Indonesian law said about this), and I had a time pressure to make my flight. He had us and there wasn’t anything I could do about it without more information.

The Deal

Everyone was tense. The cops all had big guns. I had a mask and snorkel. I was nervous. My buddy was nervous. “OK, that sounds fair. I trust you’ll pay for me. Thanks for the help.” Everyone relaxed. The cops, expecting a cut of the bribe broke out into smiles. Jokes flowed and slaps on the back echoed out of the shack. The only problem was we had no agreement, nothing to show for our bribe. We were on vacation and our plans for the day were ruined. I decided to take a chance.

“Just so I can be clear. How long will this 20 dollars last? I mean, we are headed down the coast and we might get stopped again.”

The chief leaned forward, I sweated. “I’m on duty until 6 pm, be back at your hotel and off the roads by then.” I smiled sweetly and handed over my $20. To our surprise the motorcycle cop jumped on his bike and led us down the road for the next 20 minutes, waving to other cops, smiling at his profit, until we reached another check point. Our situation was explained and we were given a pass for the rest of the day.

We swam, it was fun. We returned to our hotel and booked our boat off Lombok for the next morning cutting our trip short by one day. Corruption cost us $20 but it cost the economy of Lombok two tourists and a promise never to go back.

Shake Down by the Cops in Sri Lanka

I was driving back from the airport after dropping off my now wife. We were leaving Sri Lanka after 3 years and she was off first. I was around the corner from my home when a police officer, walking casually down the street, waved me over. He asked for my license and registration. I had a local license, yes, I do learn my lessons. But the registration was a different matter, it was expired. I had no idea it was expired as I was borrowing the car from a friend. She also had no idea.

“That’s a $100 spot fine.” The skinny cop said, his brown uniform wrinkled from a day’s work under the muggy tropical sun.

I smiled. “You mean you want me to pay you?” He nodded. “Sure, I replied, but I’ll need a receipt.” He paled and tried to recover.

“I can’t give you a receipt. I’ll have to confiscate your license and you’ll have to pay at the court. It will take weeks to sort out. ” I smiled. He frowned.

“OK, that’s fine. Give me the fine and take my license.” He straightened his back and frowned further, probably wondering what went wrong. He grumbled, handed me my license back and walked away without another word.

Unfortunately for him I worked in the legal sector and knew my rights. He was not a traffic cop, and couldn’t give out tickets. I knew it, he didn’t know I knew it. I had learned my lessons well. Don’t drive in a foreign country without knowing the laws.

Guides looking for bigger tips

I stood on the side of a cliff, a thousand feet in the air at one of Sri Lanka’s world heritage sites, Sigyria, admiring frescoes painted onto the rocks over a thousand years ago. The paintings are protected by ropes blocking access. It was an honor system as no guards where around. I looked to my left searching for my guest from Japan, it was his first trip to Sri Lanka and he wasn’t used to the loose rules.

I found him. He was with our guide BEHIND the ropes taking pictures with a flash despite a “do not enter” sign and an equally large “no photographs” image. I pulled him over and asked him to stop. In response he answered innocently that the guide had said it was OK if he gave him a $1 tip. He didn’t have the money I had to lend it to him. This pissed me off and I chastised the guide for taking advantage. The guide got upset, I got upset, and the guide lost any chance of getting a final tip.

I hate it when guides threaten the places that provide them with jobs just to earn a few more dollars. I equally hate tourists breaking the rules because they can. Yes, this includes me and my first cop story as well.

3 Rules to Not Paying Bribes

I have only paid a bribe that one time in 11 years of wandering. I can’t promise I won’t have to pay one in the future but I have learned these three rules to minimize the chances:

1. Know the laws. The more information you have the better position you are in to resist the fear that can lead to a bribe.
2. Never give a bribe to someone just to gain a free or exclusive benefit. You end up contributing to the ruin of that which you came to see in the first place.
3. Don’t put yourself in a compromising situation to begin with. Follow the laws, avoid driving when you can, and put the burden of responsibility on locals who understand the situation better.

Have you ever given a bribe? When do you think its OK? Share your stories below?

Photo Credit

When to Bribe, How to Bribe, Do you Bribe? is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Mother Teresa Street in Prishtina, Kosovo

Almost everything in Kosovo boils down to politics, and this is true for soccer (yes I’m American) as well.  Kosovo is not in the World Cup, which is to be expected from a country that is only recognized by 65 nations and who is in a diplomatic stalemate with Serbia-which is in the World Cup- over its independence. With the majority 90% Kosovar-Albanian supporting independence Serbia is not likely to win too many World Cup supporters except for those from the Serbian enclaves.  So the question which country garners the most support? Make no mistake, just because they don’t have a national team in the tournament, it has not dampened the excitement in Prishtina as a hundred cafes, bars and betting halls play each match to crowds of supporters.

Typical wares on Mother Teresa Street

To help answer my question, I decided to enlist the support of consumerism. I spent the day crisscrossing the winding streets of Kosovo’s hilly capital city in search of an American (for me) and a Japanese (for my wife) national jersey from the array of street venders selling pirated goods. I started off my day feeling optimistic, thinking an American jersey would be easy to come by. Kosovo has a love affair with the US that goes back to the NATO bombings in 1999. You can hardly walk 100 meters without coming across a US flag or assorted paraphernalia. If you are unlucky you’ll even pass the grossly ill-proportioned golden statue of Bill Clinton greeting visitors as they enter Prishtina on Bill Clinton Avenue.

I started off my search on Mother Teresa, a pedestrian walkway in the middle of town where street hawkers sell everything form knockoff Gucci belts to yapping Chinese electronic dogs performing back flips. As I walked under a banner of soccer balls and assorted national flags I assumed my search would be concluded early…leaving the rest of the day free to drink beer and cheer the second day of the tournament with the rest of the city in an outdoor cafe.

Reality was in fact quite different. I left the center of town disappointed and worried about my prospects. The closest I came to an American jersey came during this discussion.

Me: “Do you have an American Jersey?”

Seller: “I LOVE America! I lived in Arizona before.”

Me: “Great, so you have a jersey.”

Seller: “No, but I have an Argentina Jersey.”

Me: “Actually, that’s a Cameroon Jersey.”

Seller: “Yes, I love America. 13 Euro please.”

Street vendor in Kosovo

It was time to try a new tactic, so I headed to the outskirts of town to a large department store next to the K-FOR military base. K-FOR is the international military presence in Kosovo helping to keep the peace. With a large contingent from the US, as well as from all over Europe, it was my last great hope. I arrived at the four story complex catering to the nearby military personnel. You can buy anything you can think of there (all properly pirated and made in China), including a full outfit of North Face gortex clothing, fake Iphones, and DVDs for 1.5 Euro each. What they didn’t have was an American Jersey. By this point I would have settled for a North Korean jersey, but they didn’t have those either.

By the end of the day I resigned myself to supporting the US without proper clothing. I could have bought a full Celtics basketball uniform if I wanted but it seemed a bit off the mark (even though the Celts are in the NBA playoffs right now!). During my day of anthropological research I found the following teams: Brazil, Argentina, Cameroon (2nd most random), England, Italy, Portugal, Germany, Netherlands, and Israel (most random).

If you are still with me…are you?…you may be wondering what this all means. What I learned was that American flags, gratefulness for the military intervention and knockoff American clothing brands are one thing, football is another. Kosovars are happy to support any of the favored teams, particularly if they are European. However, the political and cultural support that America enjoys in Kosovo only goes so far and there is still a lot of work to be done before we see American Soccer supporters lining up to buy fake uniforms. With a tie to England in their first match, the US took one positive step towards earing some respect. It will need to take many many more before people are willing to shell out 13 Euro to support the US over Cameroon.

World Cup in Kosovo: politics and football is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Sitting outside on the patio of a small Kosovo cafe, a beer held at the ready to celebrate the end to another perfect day, we were suddenly descended on by six scruffy small children. Pitiful eyes pleaded with us for money as they spread out amongst our group begging. We ignored them in turn and somehow they managed to look even more desperate.

I know, it sounds horrible and trust me it feels horrible. I have been traveling a long time and the scene is the same in most developing countries I visit. The orphans in Hanoi reciting their memorized English phrases, the legless beggars in Cambodia, the woman with her newborn child hanging limply from her breast as she begs amongst stopped traffic in Sri Lanka.

We weren’t a group of normal travelers, instead we were all seasoned development workers, used to working in harsh environments with marginalized and desperate people. We all wanted to help others, so why didn’t we give the children money? Why do I pass by the beggar on the street without looking into his eyes, at least acknowledging that he exists?

Of all the things I’ve learned from traveling, all the ways that I have grown as a person from my experiences around the world, this is the thing I hate most about who I’ve become. I hate how automatic it is to pass by someone who’s begging. It comes from the fear of being taken advantage of, of being hassled and having my “precious” time wasted, of supporting a lifestyle that I know is unhealthy.

There is a long list of rationalizations I can recite to help assuaged my guilt. The children should be in school, they aren’t acting on their own and are often being used by criminal networks. Even when they are not controlled by criminals there’s always some adult exploiting them for his/her own profit. Money to the children will not really help their situation and will just reinforce bad habits. Adult beggars usually have places they can go for food and support, and are usually found in the tourist areas of developing countries based on a market calculation. Don’t even get me started on the adults who use their children to plead their case, they upset me more than anyone.

But the feeling of guilt never goes away as I ignore the children or walk by the adults. I am glad it’s still there, and I hope I never become callouses enough for it to disappear. There are also times when everyone needs help. Not everyone is trying to rip you off, and some people genuinely need a hand extended in their direction. Thus the traveler’s dilemma becomes not one of to give or not to give, but how to give and to whom.

Everyone needs to decide for themselves how they feel about this. Some give money because it’s easier than dealing with their feelings of guilt. I would recommend staying in the area for some time to see who is truly needy, how the locals react to giving money and how much they offer. I don’t subscribe to the idea of giving pencils and books to kids as a local school would be able to manage the resources better. Try to seek out a local charity and support them, they will have a better idea of what will help most. Food is also a good gauge of people’s intentions. I often find people reject food as they want money, which usually means its going to someone else.

Following the above advice, I do tend to give away change if I have it in my pocket, the person asking is an adult and does not have a child with them. I need to feel humane too I guess, but I do have my lines. I would suggest you find your lines before you travel, it makes the inevitable heartbreak a little bit easier to bear.

Do you give money? What are you feelings about beggars? There’s no right or wrong answer so leave you thoughts below.

Should you give money to beggars when you travel? is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Of course the prision can't help but look nice from the outside in a tropical country

When I decided to take my own advice and re-visit Timor-Leste, I didn’t expect to find myself in a dark suffocating prison. Travel is not just about beaches, bars and mountain tops; its also about learning the history of the country and its people. I am sure the 13 odd government employees I brought with me to learn about post-conflict land administration and conflict management were hoping for the former. I can’t name where the officials are from as elements of their own government might not be happy we discussed ethnic reconciliation. If you know me well, I am sure you can guess.

The Indonesian era prison is actually home to a permanent exhibit on the Reconciliation process that occurred in Timor after independence, called the Commission for Reception, Truth and Reconciliation (CAVR). It is tricky business getting people together to admit to crimes they committed against their neighbors, but it’s an exercise that’s vital to forgiving and moving on to a more peaceful society. With war raging in Afghanistan, and post-war countries like Iraq trying to move on, examples like the process in Timor are a great way for travelers to gain a greater appreciation for the difficulties so many countries face around the world.

The family greets you as you enter the mildew soaked buildings

If you are planning a trip to Timor-Leste I recommend a visit to the exhibition, but if you can’t get away just yet here is short tour from my visit.

Community meetings and reconciliation

The CAVR was asked to investigate less serious crimes and bring victims and persecutors together to reconcile. Most people wanted reconciliation, but also rehabilitation for victims, engagement with refugees, and grassroots reconciliation based on both traditional methods and involving the Church.

About 1,371 reconciliations were facilitated by CAVR between perpetrators and victims of less serious crimes.

Before the (CRP) I felt ashamed to walk around the village. Now when I walk around, I feel freer. People didn’t talk to me sometimes before. Now I feel that people are more open. Before I felt a weight on me when I went to work in the fields.

As you walk though the prison various rooms are set up with displays showing the history of not only the CAVR but also a history of Timor-Leste’s struggle for independence from Indonesia.

Presentation by one of the members of the CAVR and director of the exhibit

Description of the Isolation Cell

As you move through the exhibit it is impossible not to be moved by the pain and suffering experienced by the Timorese people. And yet amid all of this suffering there is a message of hope, justice and peace. Nothing can become  so bad as to be beyond redemption as there is also an equal ability of forgiveness by human beings.

Of course this does not make it any easier and some of the images are graphic and disturbing. Such as the one below (scroll fast if you do not want to see).

Inside the prison cells

At the end of the tour you are brought to a small garden to discuss what you have seen, share your feelings and work through what is at once a shame for human beings but also a model of triumph and forgiveness. As the humid breeze  brushes your hair, the palm trees groan under the weight of gigantic coconuts, and the twittering of birds fill your ears you are reminded that nature has a capacity to revert to its original self, as do we humans after tragedy has stuck. The final message the tour has for you is not one of the past, but of the present. On the wall leading out is a question, scrolled in illuminating moss and algae: “What will you do for human rights now?”

Its a good question. Hopefully more travelers take it to heart and leave something positive wherever they go.

The CAVR exhibition is open to the public each working day on Balide Rd in Dili. Tour guides are available in English and Tetun. Bookings and further information are available at: tel 3310315, email chegatours@gmail.com

Have a strong feeling about the CARV? What do you think about a traveler’s responsibilities? Leave a comment below.

Reconciliation and Human Rights in Timor-Leste (East Timor): more to travel than just beaches and beer is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Considering that most of my posts are about travel and exotic locales it may be shocking to hear that I actually do have a job. Many of you may have wondered about what it is I actually do and what type of work a development/human rights/conflict resolution worker actually does. To shed a little light into my work life, and to help educate on some of the most pressing matters facing Sri Lanka, I am posting two recent publications that I wrote.

The first publication was released through my former employer, the Centre on Housing Rights and Evictions (COHRE). It deals with the High Security Zones in Sri Lanka and how they have been used to deny citizens their human rights to adequate housing, and return to their former homes and lands after displacement.

The second publication was written in my private capacity and published in the Forced Migration Review. It offers policy guidelines for the return of more than 280,000 internally displaced persons in Northern Sri Lanka. The article also highlights lessons learned from previous displacement and return events including the 2001 tsunami and the 2007 government pacification of Eastern Sri Lanka.

The full issue can be accessed here: Protracted displacement

Research and publication are just two of the many tools that development and human rights specialists use to help make an impact. It is often difficult for small agencies to get a seat at the table when key decisions are made. As most decisions are political in nature it is important to have as much information publicly available as possible. While nothing is guaranteed, reports and information help ensure that policy makers cannot just turn a blind eye and pretend serious issues do not exist.

Development and Human Rights at Work is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Is it really the end of the war? What about the fight for human security and human rights? is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

In mid-March I traveled the 314 km (198 miles) road to the eastern district of Batticaloa. The trip took over 9 hours by car and while bumpy and long passed through some of the most beautiful areas of Sri Lanka I have ever seen. Lush jungle, sweeping plains, soaked marshes, and jagged mountains rolled by as we traversed from west to east coast. Through a stretch of national park peacocks ran unashamed along the side of the road, foxes scurried for cover as we approached, and an elephant stood uncompromising beside a rural store.

In 2007 the Sri Lankan government militarily liberated sections of Batticaloa (and the rest of the East) that used to be controlled by the LTTE (the Tigers). The resulting mass displacement of people fleeing the constant mortar attacks and heavy ground fighting created a wave of internally displaced persons (IDP) throughout Batticaloa. Over 300,000 people fled their homes with about half having been recently returned to demolished homes and destroyed livelihoods.

Once you leave the confines of the “safe” areas of Sri Lanka the military presence becomes even more apparent. Living in Colombo I thought I was used to a highly militarized way of life, but the people of Batticaloa face many more intrusions into their daily lives. The road south into Batticaloa is lined with check point after check point, framed by beautiful landscape, desperate IDP camps and watch towers and militia encampments constantly on the lookout for LTTE infiltrations.

Burned out Hindu temple along the road side

Many areas even along the side of the road have yet to be de-mined, let alone the more rural areas where many people have been returned to

At each checkpoint you are interviewed. Asked where you are going, who you are, and what your business is. 100 meters later you are subjected to the same scrutiny even through no new roads connected to the main road in between check points. Five minutes later the same routine unfolds. Compared to those traveling on public buses we had it easy. A few responses, ID verification and we were on our way. Others on the bus are forced to leave the bus and are search individually before being allowed to proceed. With over 20 checkpoint in just one hour of driving you can imagine how long it can take to get anywhere.

Soldier at a check point

Batticaloa town itself is beautifully set on a expansive lagoon that opens to the ocean. Thousands of birds fly in and out of the lagoon searching for food along side local fishermen in small wooden boats. After recent local elections (the first in over 10 years) a sense of normalcy is returning to the area. However, Batticaloa’s future is still uncertain. Barb wire winds itself around and through the town, IDP camps dot the area, and the government supported local militia (a break away faction of the LTTE) is still reportedly recruiting child soldiers into its ranks.

Many people have been forced from their homes by the military and the police without receiving any from of compensation or recourse. Their homes have become bases and barracks.

Provincial elections are slated for May 10th. With various ethnic and religious groups vying for power, and with an increasingly politically untenable central government trying to keep its political coalition from falling apart, the future of the East is quite uncertain.

With no answers to give, all I can hope is that the next time I visit security will mean increased economic opportunities, a roof over everyones heads, and plenty of food on the table; not barbwire, strings of checkpoints, and an increased military and militia presence.

Glimps of a free Batticaloa is a post from: Todd's Wanderings

Targeted bus

A view of the street

Sri Lanka 2008: Bombings, Assasinations, and Cease Fire Abrogation is a post from: Todd's Wanderings